Phillip and Rebecca Mefford

the Mefford 3 (January)

2012-01-25T21:16:00.001-08:00

Ocak
January

Okay,we know it is finally time to take down our Christmas tree...It's just that we've been so busy-- especially Lincoln!

In perfect timing during our visit at Grandpa and Grandma's this last week Lincoln popped our his seventh tooth, said his first words, "hi" and "bye," and started walking!!!

Apparently he's going to try playing the piano next.

Phillip had the pleasure of trying a yogurt flavor, new on the Asian markets: carrot, corn, and a meat that shall remain nameless. Mmm...?

And we returned home happy and (sort of) rested. Oh, by the way, Happy Chinese New Year!

İyi Seneler (Happy New Years)

2012-01-02T08:38:00.000-08:00

İyi Seneler Happy New Years

In American culture, if a bird poops on your head it’s simply considered a gross mess. Not so in the land of the Turks—that means it’s your lucky day. If a ladybug, or uğur böceği (luck bug), lands on your hand and then flies away you supposedly get the wish you want. The evil eye, or nazar, keeps bad luck away. And that old tradition of knocking on wood—you’ll find it here too. We have even heard rumors of friends of friends annually going to buy red underwear to don on New Year’s Eve (an auspicious Spanish tradition).

It is interesting how kısmet (fate) and şans (luck) have seeped into a culture that also believes in a providential God…I suppose all of us are intrigued by the mysterious.

Whether or not you believe in luck, and certainly, no matter what color underwear you wore on December 31st, we sincerely wish you a very happy and very blessed New Year.

İyi Seneler!

**We’re taking a blog break for the next couple weeks. See you in February!**

Lincoln's Log: Twelve Month

2011-12-26T06:53:00.000-08:00

Age: One Year Old!

Quotes: For to us a child is born, to us a son is given. These beautiful words from Isaiah 9:6 are so full of meaning to us as we celebrate a full year of Lincoln Umut’s life along side celebrating the birth of Jesus, this Christmas.

Height: 72 cm (about 28 inches)

Weight: 8 kilos, 800 grams (almost 19½ pounds)

Eating: Lets just say, after seeing the sugar high (and subsequent emotional breakdown) that follows birthday cake, we’re going to stick to meals of fruits, vegetables, grains, and other healthy stuff!

Sleeping: 8 hours through the night, good long morning nap, afternoon nap optional.

Skills: Standing without support; climbing; putting round pegs in round holes; playing his Garanimals pipe-organ with pizzazz!

Click here to see photos of Lincoln Umut’s First-Birthday Party and Christmas Celebration!

Gülü Seven Dikenine Katlanır (One Who Loves Roses Will Endure Thorns)

2011-12-19T11:41:00.000-08:00

Gülü Seven Dikenine Katlanır One Who Loves Roses Will Endure Thorns

Since the beginning of time romantics and poets, ascetics and mystics have found a relationship between love and suffering. In idiomatic English we might say, “Every rose has its thorns.” Sure, Auntie Ayşe is cranky when she hasn’t had her nap, but we love her despite that. İstanbul traffic is a bear, but we deal with it because this is such an amazing city to live in. Roses, little thorns. No big deal. The comparable Turkish phrase takes this idea to an even more personal level, Gülü seven dikenine katlanır, “One who loves roses will endure thorns.” Love covers a multitude of “thorns”—even big ones. This seems so apt to us this Christmas season, as we contemplate the birth of Jesus, İsa Mesih. Even from his first day on earth he endured a lot-- for us! And we are probably more like thistles than roses, even on our best day.

Merry Christmas, dear friends.
İyi Noeller!

Her Koyun Kendi Bacağından Asılır (Every Sheep is Hung by its Own Leg)

2011-12-12T10:33:00.000-08:00

Her Koyun Kendi Bacağından Asılır Every Sheep is Hung by its Own Leg

In Turkish there is a phrase: her koyun kendi bacağından asılır or “every sheep is hung by its own leg.” Now sometimes, as modern 21st century individuals living in the big city, pastoral metaphors have a tendency to loose their profundity. The farm-yard aromas, coarse textures, and the sights and sounds of baa-ing and braying creatures don’t feel as real and as close as they might have when the expression was first formed. That is, until kurban bayram, or the sacrifice holiday (called Eid in most of the Muslim world). There is a great effort on the part of city officials to contain the expression of this ancient tradition by directing people to designated slaughtering grounds, but at some point on kurban bayram weekend you are going to see a sheep or a cow or its subsequent product, i.e. raw meat. And on that weekend you can imagine a little more vividly a sheep being hung by the legs. It is a little easier to perceive how her koyun kendi bacağından asılır could mean that everybody is responsible for their own actions. In fact, this phrase is really driven home on sacrifice day because the whole reason why our friends and neighbors here have an animal slaughtered is to gain sevap (merit or good credit) to compensate for their günah (sin, faults, or shame). There is a very firm belief that no individual can pay for the sins of another…Her koyun kendi bacağından asılır, everybody is responsible for their own actions.

Kurban bayram is about a month behind us now, but the Mefford family is just ramping up for our significant holiday, Noel or Christmas. Especially during these holy weeks, living in Turkey, we have found fertile ground for reflecting on our holidays, sorting through our beliefs on merit and shame, and remembering a few other familiar metaphors about sheep.

İrmik Helvası (Sweet Semolina Dessert)

2011-12-05T10:53:00.000-08:00

Auntie Ayşe’s Cookbook

İrmik Helvası Sweet Semolina Dessert

Description: This is the first Turkish dessert Rebecca attempted to make. After about two weeks of being here, as an offering to the neighbors in hopes they would invite us into their home, we prepared it and put it on a plate. Ünzüle, ever gracious, did invite us in and portioned out some irmik helvası for the others in her family. Her husband said, “Is this an American dessert?” it was that unrecognizable! That being said, this dish might take a little practice!

Ingredients:
2 C whole milk
1 ¼ C granulated sugar
½ C unsalted butter
¼ C vegetable oil
¼ C pine nuts
1 C semolina

Directions: Get all your ingredients out before you start cooking, so they are on hand. (Especially when the pine nuts start becoming brown, you have to be quick so they don’t burn.)

Bring the milk, sugar and butter to boil in a medium-size saucepan. Set aside or keep on low heat. Put vegetable oil and pine nuts in a large saucepan and cook over low to moderate heat until bubbles form. After about 1 minute the pine nuts will be browned. Immediately add the semolina and stir vigorously for 3-6 minutes. (The goal is for a light, fluffy semolina so don’t over cook; it will begin to burn at about 10 minutes.)

Slowly add the milk, sugar, butter mixture to the nuts and semolina. (When the liquid mixture hits the oil it will spit, so take care.) Stir continuously over moderate heat for several minutes until thickened but still fluid. Pour into a shallow, 9-inch pie dish, and cool until set, about 2 hours. To serve, cut into pieces.

To make a sweeter, but less traditional version of İrmik Helvası, try adding mini-chocolate chips at the very end.

--
This recipe has been adapted from Eat Smart in Turkey by Joan Peterson.

Lincoln's Log: Eleven Month

2011-11-28T10:58:00.000-08:00

Age: Eleven Months

Quotes: Hey diddle diddle, the cat and the fiddle… Grandma Mefford brought some fun musical toys for Lincoln as an early Christmas present, and he is having a blast dancing along with the tunes. (And it doesn’t seem to bother him how a dish and a spoon could possibly run away!)

Height / Weight: Growing everyday!

Eating: Lincoln loves finger-feeding himself, especially bread, slices of pears, and morsels from Mommy’s plate, although he hasn’t graduated to the fork and spoon yet.

Sleeping: Lincoln averages about 8 hours of sleep a night before he is awake and rearing to go. He also still usually takes a great morning nap, and sometimes an afternoon nap.

Skills: Playing Peek-a-Boo (also known as juh-eh!); Waving “Good bye”; Clapping; Throwing balls; Responding to gel, or “come here!”

Lincoln's 5 senses of İstanbul.

2011-11-21T06:40:00.000-08:00

Lincoln’s 5 senses of İstanbul.

Istanbul…

Feels like…getting your cheeks pinched by the uncle-ish fellow on the bus,

Looks like…an open air market, full of colors and textures, wanting to be explored,

Smells like…rain drops on pine trees and something cooking on the stove,

Tastes like…sweet pears, Auntie Ayşe’s yogurt soup, and a sneaky sip of tea,

\Sounds like…a cat meowing at the door.

Rebecca's 5 senses of İstanbul.

2011-11-14T06:35:00.000-08:00

Rebecca’s 5 senses of İstanbul.

Istanbul…

Feels like…a crowded city bus; a place where opposites meet, for even opposites go in the same direction for a little while…

Looks like…head-coverings and mini-skirts hand-in-hand, sea birds floating over minarets, a busy mall, so new shoppers aren’t quite sure what to do…

Smells like…discarded furniture left in the rain, smoke from cigarettes and apple-infused pipes, and sometimes like fresh, organic garden fruit brought back from the village…

Tastes like…a Mediterranean buffet-- olives and goat cheese, sesame seeds, fresh bread, powdered sugar, perfumed jams, and we’ve only just finished brunch…

Sounds like…tradition and pop melding into its own unique sound; Would you like some more tea? Sip, sip, sip, clink.

Phillip's 5 senses of İstanbul.

2011-11-07T06:28:00.000-08:00

Phillip’s 5 senses of İstanbul.

Istanbul…

Feels like…I’m playing chicken with a million other drivers.

Looks like…ancient and modern built on top of one another.

sometimes Smells like…the sea and sometimes smells like kebabs on the grill.

Tastes like…fresh vegetables in olive oil served along side those delicious kebabs.

Sounds like… a booming metropolis trying to take its place among the ten largest cities of the world.

The Guest of Honor

2011-10-31T12:10:00.000-07:00

“The Guest of Honor”

Nasrettin Hoca entered a formal reception area and seated himself at the foremost elegant chair. The Chief of the Guard approached and said: "Sir, those places are reserved for guests of honor."
"Oh, I am more than a mere guest," replied Nasrettin confidently.
"Oh, so are you a diplomat?"
"Far more than that!"
"Really? So you are a minister, perhaps?"
"No, bigger than that too."
"Oho! So you must be the King himself, sir," said the Chief sarcastically.
"Higher than that!"
"What?! Are you higher than the King?! Nobody is higher than the King in this village!"
"Now you have it. I am nobody!" said Nasrettin.

Adapted from http://en.wikibooks.org/wiki/Sufism/Nasrudin

Lincoln's Log: Ten Month

2011-10-24T03:59:00.000-07:00

Age: Ten Months

Quotes: Dear Lincoln…When I see you next your going to be walking. This is part of a note that Lincoln’s grandpa wrote to him. Lines like that really bring home the biggest sacrifice of living overseas: being far from family, knowing that grandpa and grandma are missing out on the little moments that fill every day of Lincoln’s life.

Height / Weight: We don’t have the measurements this month, but according to all his Turkish aunties, he needs to be “fattened up.”

Eating: Lincoln can eat almost anything, but especially loves gnawing on bread and fruits. He is a champ at feeding himself finger foods, even if it is quite messy.

Sleeping: Two naps a day, usually in the stroller, and sleeping up to nine hours straight at night!!!!

Skills: Real crawling; Eating fruit off the core (under supervision, of course); Ambling from one end of the coffee table to the other after pulling himself up; Learning (we hope) hayır, “no.”

Eğirdir Gölü (Lake Eğirdir)

2011-10-17T00:31:00.000-07:00

Eğirdir Gölü Lake Eğirdir

We have recently learned a new expression: ferahlık duymak. If you look ferahlık up in the dictionary you will find a few flat words including spaciousness, airiness, contentment, happiness, relief. In truth, these translations fail to inspire the real meaning. If we understand right, it means the swell of emotion, the liberation from clenching internal anxiety, the broad beautiful peacefulness that alight a person when they see tranquil waters reflecting the day’s last rays of sun. It means a profound sigh of contentment, the suggestion of a smile in one’s eyes. This is how we felt when visiting Eğirdir Gölü, Turkey’s second largest freshwater lake, and possibly one of the most beautiful places on earth. One meandering hour east of Isparta and southwest of the ancient ruins of Pisidian Antioch, Lake Eğirdir has been a preferred stop for travelers since the Babylonian traders of the 5th Century BC. When we visited we were once and again amazed by the exquisiteness of nature and its Creator as well as the warmth of the family whose guest house we stayed at, whose owner, wife, sisters, and daughters, were kind enough to share conversation and tea, fresh seasonal apples, and homemade baklava with us. Nothing really is much better than that.

İyi Yolculuklar (Good Travels!)

2011-10-10T11:38:00.000-07:00

İyi Yolculuklar Good Travels!

We have recently had the opportunity to take a work-related trip within Turkey, and find ourselves purposefully winding our way back to İstanbul via the scenic route. While many of the cities, towns, and villages we pass through are familiar with foreigners because of the ever expanding tourism industry we are surprised to hear that few places have had foreigners settle in. Of course large cities like İstanbul and Ankara become easy and convenient hubs for ex-pats, but outside of them there are numerous fascinating, livable, and shall we say, less crowded places to live. It makes us wonder…

1. What would it be like to live in Turkey outside of İstanbul? Would we miss the ease of air travel, public transportation, clear İstanbul accent, English education opportunities for our children, greater expatriate community and imported foreign goods?

2. Are these places foreigner friendly? How much are newcomers expected to assimilate to the local culture? How much are we willing to assimilate?

3. If we did move…where?!

An antique house in Northern Turkey.

Bulgur Pilavı (Cooked Bulgur)

2011-10-03T01:28:00.000-07:00

Auntie Ayşe’s Cookbook

Bulgur Pilavı Cooked Bulgur

Description: Bulgur is a whole grain copiously used in Turkish cuisine. It can accompany many entrées, adding color, complementary flavors, and more nutrition than regular rice.

Ingredients:
1 C coarse bulgur
6 Tbsp olive oil
1 Tbsp tomato paste
1 onion, diced
2 cloves garlic, diced
2 tomatoes, diced
½ bunch green onions, chopped
½ bunch parsley, chopped
1 tsp dried mint
½ tsp pul biber, pepper flakes (also known as aleppo pepper) or substitue a smaller amount of the more spicy crushed red pepper
½ black pepper
Salt, to taste
2 C water

Directions: In a medium sized pot heat the oil and sauté onions, garlic and tomato until tender. Over high heat add the tomato paste and uncooked bulgur, stir for a minute. Add water, mint, pepper flakes, black pepper and salt. When the water begins to boil reduce to low heat and cover. While stirring occasionally allow bulgur to simmer 10-15 minutes until the water is absorbed and the bulgur is tender. Once cooked, turn off the heat and add green onions and parsley. Stir well and serve.

uncooked bulgur

Lincoln's Log: Nine Month

2011-09-26T01:26:00.000-07:00

Age: Nine Months

Quotes: Küçük Pilip, Phillip’s friends sometimes call Lincoln Umut. Or babasi aynı—the same as his father. Others more diplomatically let us decide; kime benziyor? who does he look like? Well, what do you think?

Height: 68 cm (almost 27 inches)

Weight: 7.2 kilos (about 16 pounds)

Eating: Likes playing with small pieces of food on his highchair tray, but is still figuring out how to put them in his mouth.

Sleeping: Sleeping through the night, but still has a hard time sleeping during the day unless he’s in his stroller.

Skills: Crawling everywhere; Pulling himself up; Brushing his teeth (with Mommy’s help)—finally something Mommy wants me to put in my mouth!

Aynı tas, aynı hamam (Same Water Bowl, Same Turkish Bath)

2011-09-19T11:45:00.000-07:00

Aynı tas, aynı hamam Same Water Bowl, Same Turkish Bath

Life inevitably sinks into the same old, same old—laundry, dishes, exercise routine, school, work, homework, tripping over the same toys left on the floor, in an out of the same neighbor’s houses, in and out of the same neighborhood shops, in and out of the same bus on the same bus route. Business as usual. Same water bowl, same Turkish bath. Aynı tas, aynı hamam.

But what are we saying?! We live in İstanbul, purported by some to be the fastest growing tourism destination in the World. And if people from all over the globe want to be here, one would think that this city offers something other than the same old, same old for us.

Take the Turkish bath, for example, a highlight of the tourist experience: the curtain of humidity you walk through as you step into the marble cavern, the sensation of cold and hot water draping your body, the shock of how many unknown and unwanted dead skin cells have been clinging to you as the masseuse scrapes them off with the exfoliating kese. While this might be a rare occasion for the American visitor, the Turkish bath was once a ritual part of every day life in this region. A synthesis of the Central Asian steam baths and Roman public baths, the Ottoman Turkish designed hamam was a place for cleansing, socializing, and even business. Exotic to us now, even the hamam had become the same old, same old for some.

We have to say, as luxurious and even (if you know where to go) decently priced the hamams might be, and as exciting as living in this culturally-intriguing city might be, we can’t really call ourselves tourists any longer. This is our home, and we actually feel pretty pleased with our good old, comfy sunken-in routine—the same seasonal veggies for dinner, the same breath of fresh air at our park, the same friends and neighbors and teachers who we get to interact with on a daily basis…the same lovely life.

Traditional Turkish baths are often decorated with Ottoman-Turkish tile work.

A day in the life of Lincoln Umut

2011-09-12T06:40:00.000-07:00

A day in the life of
Lincoln Umut

If Lincoln were able to tell you about what his typical day is like, this might be what he would say…

Now that I’m sooo much bigger than I used to be, Mommy and Daddy take me out and about more often. Usually, though, I’m the one who has to get the day started. When I wake up, I start by asking nicely, but if they don’t hear me I’m forced to get a little bit louder. While Mom gives me some milk she sings a song that she learned when she was a little girl in Thailand, “one nee ben one, one nee ben one ti prajao kong krai!…” this is the day, this is the day that the Lord has made!... Then we eat yogurt and fruit together. That’s all good, but after breakfast Mom takes so long to get herself ready for the day. Plus she always makes me have at least couple diaper changes before we go. Diaper changes are incredibly boring, so I liven them up by trying to crawl around on the changing table. When they (inevitably) stop me from doing that I just kick and scream to let them know how displeased I am. Apparently they don’t understand me yet because they keep insisting on changing my diapers all throughout the day.

Now for the interesting part of the day: I get in my stroller and we go out of the apartment. Some times we take leisurely strolls in the park, which I know is a ploy to get me to take a nap. (It usually works.) Other times we weave in and out of crowds of people at the market-- who I like to call “my adoring fans.” Most usually, I go to language lessons with Mommy. Mommy and her tutor sit at desks and read and talk and write, which seems so tedious to me. They encourage me to sit on my blanket and play with toys, but crawling in between the desks is way more exciting. The ladies at the school say I should be their mascot because I'm cute and because I'm their "youngest student." Mom says İnşallah I will speak Turkish fluently when I grow up.

Some afternoons we visit Mommy and Daddy's friends. The men mostly tell Daddy what a manly man he is for bearing a son. My favorite friend of Daddy's is Uncle Luna Park (or Uncle Amusement Park) who promises to be my personal jungle-gym as I grow up. The ladies don't toss me around quite as much. Mostly they just complain about how I need to be fattened up, then feed me tea and cake when Mommy’s not looking. But then again, even Mommy gives me little bits of Ramadan dried dates, which are sweet and delicious.

By the end o the day, I’m pretty exhausted, but I’m never quite ready for bedtime. I’m always up for a game of futbol with Daddy or exploratory excursions throughout the apartment. However, once my evening oatmeal slips down into my tummy, sleep doesn’t seem too terribly awful after all.

People’s Talk

2011-09-05T12:03:00.000-07:00

“People’s Talk”

Nasrettin Hoca and his son were riding the donkey to the town market. A group of people passed. Hoca heard them whisper: "What times are these? Look at those two, have they no mercy on the poor animal?"

Nasrettin Hoca, hearing this, tells his son to get off and continue the journey on foot. Another group of people passing by and seeing this comment: "What times are these? Look at this man. His poor son with his frail body has to walk while he at his best age is riding the donkey!"

Hearing this, Nasrettin Hoca tells his son to ride the donkey and he himself gets off to walk the rest of the way. A third group of people seeing this remark: "What times are these? This young man is riding the donkey while his sickly old father has to walk!"

Hearing this, Nasrettin Hoca tells his son to get off the animal and they both walk with the donkey trailing behind. Another group passing by point to them, laughing: "Look at these idiots. They have a donkey and they are walking all the way to the market!"

Adapted from http://en.wikibooks.org/wiki/Sufism/Nasrudin

Lincoln's Log: Eight Month

2011-08-29T03:27:00.000-07:00

Age: Eight Months

Quotes: Şakır şakır…rattled the coffee beans within the little plastic maraca that the barista constructed for Umut. It’s not unusual for even strangers to go out of their way to show a little love to little ones. This is a culture which adores children. We like that. And Lincoln Umut had an awesome time playing the maraca!

Weight: almost 7 kilos (about 15+ pounds)

Eating: He’s eating great! He’ll eat plain yogurt just plain now, although we still mix it with banana most of the time. And he’s not as picky anymore about his food being super-pureed.

Sleeping: About the same as last month, which is great for both baby and mom and dad.

Skills: Lincoln is a superb scoot-crawler; better at sitting up and playing with toys for longer periods of time; and we try coloring every once in awhile, although he usually just wants to put the jumbo-crayons in his mouth.

Coffee Bean Maraca

Miniatürk (Miniature Turkey)

2011-08-22T01:22:00.000-07:00

Miniatürk Miniature Turkey

At the beginning of the summer we received a very special guest in the mail! Coming all the way from Maplewood Heights Elementary School in Maple Valley, Washington a world traveler named Flat Stanley came to discover Turkey. The story, written by Jeff Brown, is about a boy named Stanley Lambchop who gets accidentally flattened by a bulletin board. He discovers that the advantage of being paper-thin is that he can travel via envelope! School teachers are utilizing this whimsical story to teach children about different countries, and we had the privilege of being part of it.

Of course we would have loved to take Flat Stanley across the whole country, but limited by time and logistics, we settled for Miniatürk, a park that hosts miniatures of Turkey’s most famous destinations including, but not limited to, Cappadocia, Mardin, Nemrut Mountain, and the sites of Istanbul’s Sultan Ahmet like Hagia Sophia and the Blue Mosque. Amongst a host of Turkish children out for field trips, we had a great time introducing Turkey to our special guest.

See photographs and journal entries of Flat Stanley’s adventure in İstanbul at Biraz Daha: Flat Stanley's Journey to İstanbul, Turkey .

Maşallah (May God Preserve from Evil)

2011-08-15T11:40:00.000-07:00

Maşallah May God Preserve from Evil

Stickered to the backs of buses, posted over entrances of buildings, and poised to follow every compliment to an adorable baby, the term maşallah encompasses admiration, gratitude to God, and a jinx against evil spirits. Now that we have our own adorable baby, we think about safety a lot more, and ponder:

1. What tangible actions can we take to guard our family against injury, illness, and people with bad intentions?

2. What do we believe about protection by and from entities in the spiritual realm? How do these compare with the majority and/or folk beliefs here?

3. How do we keep in tension the fact that we can take steps to safeguard our family and yet must also trust God for the many things we can’t control (and thank Him for that!)?

Lincoln's dedication.

Patlıcan Karnıyarık (Stuffed Eggplant)

2011-08-08T01:03:00.000-07:00

Auntie Ayşe’s Cookbook

Patlıcan Karnıyarık Stuffed Eggplant

Description: A personal favorite, patlıcan karnıyarık is eggplant stuffed with minced meat. Knowing how to cook eggplant right is something Americans can definitely learn from Turkish cuisine! This entrée is best served with pilav, Turkish rice.

Ingredients:
175 gr. ground meat
½ - 1 Cup olive oil
½ kg. (generally 4-6) long, thin eggplants
3-4 tomatoes, peeled and diced
3-4 green peppers, cut in long strips
1 onion, diced
2 cloves garlic
½ a bunch of parsley
2 tsp. tomato paste
Salt & Pepper, to taste
Water

Directions: Fill a medium sized saucepan ½ full of olive oil and heat. Place the eggplants in the pan, occasionally rotate them with tongs until they are tender. Once the eggplants are very tender dry them on a paper towel, empty saucepan of excess oil, and replace the eggplants in the pan. Meanwhile, in a separate pan sauté diced onions in oil, slowly adding the meat. Once the meat is browned add tomatoes, tomato paste, garlic, parsley, salt and pepper. Cut a deep lengthwise incision in the eggplants and stuff tightly with the meat mixture. Garnish with green peppers. Fill the pan ½ full with water, cover and simmer on medium heat for approximately 15 minutes.

Lincoln's Log: Seven Month

2011-08-01T02:59:00.000-07:00

Age: Seven Months

Quotes: “I’m always the one to discover the first tooth!” Auntie Ayşe exclaimed after sneaking Lincoln Umut a spoonful of jam. Then verified by the excited kitchen full of Turkish aunties, one little bottom tooth has poked through. We heard that in Turkish tradition when the first tooth comes in the baby’s mom cooks wheat with a little bit of onions and salt and passes it out the friends and neighbors. The neighbors return their platters with a gift for the baby. How does that sound compare to the tooth fairy?

Height / Weight: Our big little guy doesn’t need to go to the doctor ever month anymore, so we don’t have his height and weight this month. He seems taller and heavier to us!

Eating: Generally he gets yogurt and banana for breakfast, a jar of veggies, a jar of fruit, and finally an evening meal of oatmeal. Somewhere with the veggies or time-tested fruit we add in a new food item.

Sleeping: Lincoln sleeps up to seven hours straight at night pretty consistently now. Then (get this) after a little milk, he falls back a sleep for a couple more hours!

Skills: Scooting (absolutely no leaving him unattended!); drumming—the drum, the table, daddy’s face…; experimenting with different gurgling noises and various other sounds.

If we could take you to one place in İstanbul… Rebecca’s choice

2011-07-25T11:46:00.000-07:00

If we could take you to one place in İstanbul…

Rebecca’s choice: my neighbor’s house for tea

I know, I know…there is a lifetime worth of sights to see in İstanbul , the most shining of which are raved about in tourist books and advertised on the television, but what those books can’t prescribe is a visit to Auntie Ayse’s kitchen to enjoy tea with her and the ladies. Almost every day in between kitchen chores and running to the pharmacy for grandma’s blood pressure medicine (truly, a day of hard labor not for sissies) the ladies in our building get together for tea. More than just warm beverages bind these women’s lives together, you see. Three out of four of our landlord’s sons and their families live in this modest apartment building. Their wives and daughters and granddaughters flow in and out of each other's homes about as constantly as the tides. I’m lucky enough to be somewhat adopted as one of them, despite the fact that I’m easily lost on conversation due to language barriers, though I like tea I can’t live up to their stamina for it (i.e., drinking it morning, afternoon, and night), and, to be honest, I’m terrible at being a housewife.

I would have you to tea with us because it is a truly authentic Turkish experience. Chatter about soap operas, pazar sales, and upcoming weddings amidst a platter of olives, tomatoes, cucumbers, fresh bread, and inevitably something sweet. Meanwhile, Aunt Ayşe has started preparing dinner for her family, her daughter-in-law leaves early to pick up the girls at school, and then we all pause for a moment while the call to prayer begins.

I don’t intend on making these women’s lives sound trite, because they are not in the least. They are full of love and devotion for family and neighbors, which thankfully, includes me. In their welcoming and seemingly effortless way they have shown me the real Turkey. I would like for you to see it too.

Occasionally a picnic replaces tea time!

Süleymaniye Camii (The Mosque of Sultan Solomon)

2011-07-18T10:59:00.000-07:00

Süleymaniye Camii The Mosque of Sultan Solomon

When you go to Washington D.C. you see presidential monuments, when you go to Venice you see gondolas, and when you go to İstanbul you see mosques. One of the most important mosques, both because of who it was built by—the great architect, Mimar Sinan—and for whom it was built—Sultan Süleyman the Magnificent—is known as Süleymaniye Camii. Built on a campus once containing a hospital, soup kitchen, schools, and more, this imperial mosque has been preserved to this day representing a deep-seated religious tradition and the remnants of a glorious world force known as the Ottoman Empire. We see growing in Turkey a renewed interest in both of these elements, the latter most recently popularized by a televised drama series known as Mühteşem Yüzyıl, Magnificent Centry, which depicts the daily-life and intrigues of Sultan Süleyman and his harem. The show is hugely popular and yet controversial, criticized for disrespectfully and indecently representing the great Sultan and his female entourage. One thing is for sure, the Turkish populace is starting to wonder what really happened in her past. And what is wonderful about that is there’s tangible traces for them to see: the mosque he ordered to be built, a mausoleum where he and his harem favorite, Roxelana, were buried, and a myriad of artifacts scattered throughout the once sprawling empire.

The mausoleum of Hürrem Sultan, otherwise known as Roxelana.

Geçmiş Olsun (May it Pass)

2011-07-11T10:49:00.000-07:00

Geçmiş Olsun May it Pass

During our seemingly continuous visits to the doctor we regularly hear the phrase, geçmiş olsun, may it pass. Most often used to wish someone ‘get well soon,’ it seems a little funny to hear this for one of Lincoln’s simple check-ups—what is there to “get over” besides, perhaps, a few tears after a routine vaccination? And yet, when you don’t think of them too literally, Turkish’s polite niceties have a pleasantness about them. Phrases like geçmiş olsun have, in fact, endeared us to the language. They offer something to say in the awkward pause between patient and receptionist, they provide just the right turn of phrase in conversation with a friend, and they give us something to ponder…

1. How do we wade beyond the greeting-card-type triteness of the get well soon’s of English and geçmiş olsun’s of Turkish and really mean what we’re saying, even if it is to a stranger?

2. Thinking about getting over and moving on, what do we wish to pass and what do we not want to pass too quickly? Yes, it would be okay if we were over with poopy diapers, but we don’t want to hurry this cuddly baby stage. Big city traffic is something we could move on from, but it would be nice to marinate a little longer in one of the world’s most history-making cities amongst new friends and neighbors.

3. What about when the doctor visit, seasonal flu, difficult exam, or time of struggle has passed? How and when should we start thinking about “what next?”

Fishing

2011-07-04T11:56:00.000-07:00

“Fishing”

Nasrettin Hoca heard that the king sent out a committee incognito, seeking suitable candidates for qazis (judges). Nasrettin took to walking around carrying an old fishing net on his shoulder. When the members of the committee reached his village, it drew their attention and they questioned him about it.

"Oh, I carry this net with me to remind me of my humble past as a poor fisherman," explained Nasrettin. The committee was impressed, and in due time Nasrettin Hoca was nominated as a qazi.

Shortly afterwards those king's representatives met Nasrettin Hoca again and noticed the net was gone.

"Where is the net, Nasrettin?" they asked.

"Well, you don't need the net after the fish is caught, do you?" replied Nasrettin.

Adapted from http://en.wikibooks.org/wiki/Sufism/Nasrudin

Lincoln's Log: Six Month

2011-06-27T08:43:00.000-07:00

Age: Six Months

Quotes: Bebeğe güneş vuruyor! “The sun is hitting the baby!” A few weeks ago the Turkish populace was concerned about Lincoln getting too cold. The new fear for the season is getting sun struck. The point is, everyone is looking out for our little guy.

Height: 64.5 cm (almost 25 ½ inches)

Weight: 6.68 kilos (about 14.7 pounds)

Eating: Lincoln’s palate is increasing daily! He’s now eating all kinds of fruits, vegetables, rice cereal and oatmeal. Soon we will start introducing egg yolk, cheeses, and meats.

Sleeping: Having recently returned from great grandma’s funeral, let’s just say, an infant with jet-lag is interesting.

Skills: Putting his toes in his mouth; Practicing different kinds of sounds (mostly “mmm…” a prototype for ‘mom’?!); Pulling mom’s hair and glasses.

Kefenin cebi yok (The burial shroud has no pockets)

2011-06-15T08:36:00.000-07:00

Kefenin cebi yok The burial shroud has no pockets

Friday night we got the phone call, one of those phone calls you never look for. Phillip’s Grandma has passed away.

There is a saying in Turkish, kefenin cebi yok, the burial shroud has no pockets. A reminder that we can't take anything with us once we've passed from this life--material posessions, ambitions, loved ones... Grandma Vivian took nothing with her, but she left an invaluable legacy behind.

Here is a portion of a letter we wrote to her to say goodbye:

Dear Grandma Vivian,
...You didn't let anything keep you from living a full and eventful life. You had goals and dreams worth living for, and you were not stingy with these goals. Your next was to hold our son. Oh, what a beautiful dream... We still remember the joy in your expression when we told you Rebecca was pregnant. Another great-grandchild. Another one to tell, “You had a great grandma once who cooked breakfast in blue nightgowns, and made the best cherry goo that anyone has ever made, who had a pet oxygen tank that came with her on all her travels from Mexico to Indiana, who hurried home to watch college basketball, who lived life to the fullest, and who loved you very much…”As we tell Lincoln that, there might be a few tears in our eyes; like the rain that slipped down our window panes the day we found out that you’re not in this world anymore. We will tell him, “Let’s hold on to life as tightly and dearly as Grandma Vivian did.”

We miss you.
Phillip and Rebecca

Havuçlu Yoğurt (Carrot Yogurt)

2011-06-06T15:14:00.000-07:00

Auntie Ayşe’s Cookbook

Havuçlu Yoğurt Carrot Yogurt

Description: Often served in amongst a menagerie of appetizers, this unique carrot yogurt will surprise your taste buds. It’s really tasty spread on toasted bread or crackers.

Ingredients:
½ kg. large carrots
2 Tbsp olive oil
250 gr. Yogurt
2 cloves garlic
salt
paprika

Directions:
Finely grate the carrots, then sauté in olive oil adding salt to taste. Crush the garlic and mix into the yogurt. Add the sautéed carrots. Mix well, sprinkle with paprika and serve.

Lincoln's Log: Five Month

2011-05-30T03:09:00.001-07:00

Age: Five Months

Quotes: Bismillah ir-Rahman ir-Rahim, generally translated “In the name of God, most Gracious, most Compassionate,” carries a broader meaning of whatever we do, we do it because of and for God. One commentary on the phrase notes, “To say bismillah is to humbly offer one's self as a vehicle for the glory and majesty of The One.” Most often we heard women mumbling this under their breath as they pick up our son, lay him down, or basically do anything regarding the baby.

Height: 63.5 cm (almost 25 inches)

Weight: 6.2 kilos (about 13 ½ pounds)

Eating: We have just slowly started to introduce solids. The verdict: he’s not a fan of plain yogurt (a staple in Turkish cuisine)—yet. He loves bananas. And everything else is somewhere in between.

Sleeping: To date he has slept through the night three times. But normally, he wakes up once or twice which is not so bad.

Skills: Grabbing dangly toys; Fart noises with his mouth (a skill every boy needs); Playing with his feet!

Kariye Müzesi (Chora Church Museum)

2011-05-23T01:16:00.000-07:00

Kariye Müzesi Chora Church Museum

Away from the tourist center, near the old city walls stands a small church called Chora. Chora means “in the country” because it originally stood outside Constantinople’s city walls. In the 14th century this humble place of worship was transformed into a gallery of Byzantine mosaics depicting scenes from the Scriptures. Whitewashed by Ottoman Turks in the 16th century, the mosaics went into hiding until the 1940’s when Chora Church was turned into a museum.

Chora Church has become one of our favorite places to take visitors, if they have time to see something a little off the usual tourist path. The Byzantine mosaics are said to be some of the best examples. However, our favorite piece is a fresco situated in funerary chamber attached to the right side of the building. This dramatic painting called the Anastasis, or The Resurrection, depicts a superhero Jesus—what Rick Steve’s called a “Biblical Rambo”—breaking down the gates of hell and binding Satan under his feet as he pulls Adam and Eve, who represent all of humanity, out of hell. The artist really captures the triumph of life over death, a hopeful image under which to be buried, an inspiring illustration even in life.

Superhero Jesus-- but really, you have to see it in person

Allah Korusun (May God Protect)

2011-05-16T01:44:00.000-07:00

Allah Korusun May God Protect

On the back of nearly every taxi and bus is a little sticker that says Allah Korusun, “May God Protect.” Perhaps this explains why taxi and bus chauffeurs are the most maniacal drivers on the road—they are “covered” by this little prayer. Not that the average driver doesn’t seem a little crazy to us…but we are realizing that we’re just coming from a different set of “road rules.” As we continue learning how to navigate not just the streets, but also the culture of İstanbul, we ponder:

1. How much should we go by the saying, when in Rome do what the Romans do?

2. How can we tell when a rule is strict versus when it is more like a guideline?

3. If we adapt too much to the ‘rules of the road’ here, will we forget the rules back home—and cause an accident?

Parking

2011-05-09T23:49:00.000-07:00

“Parking”

The modern day Nasrettin Hoca has been looking for a parking place for twenty minutes already. He turns around, he waits, he drives a bit further, but finds nothing.

He has an important business meeting and he's going to be late, but nothing, no parking space. Filled with despair he raises his eyes up to the sky and says:

"My God, if you get me a parking space in five minutes, I promise to you that I'll eat halal (kosher) food for the rest of my life..."

And suddenly - O miracle! – right next to him a car drives away leaving an ideal parking spot.

So Nasrettin Hoca turns his eyes to the sky and says: "God, stop searching, I found one!"

Adapted from http://en.wikibooks.org/wiki/Sufism/Nasrudin

Lincoln's Log: Four Month

2011-05-02T00:23:00.000-07:00

Age: Four Months

Quotes: “Oh”, “gu”, and “ah-ngh” are some of Lincoln’s favorite things to say nowadays. We love this babbling stage!

Height: 60.5 cm (almost 24 inches)

Weight: 6.1 kilos (about 13 ½ pounds)

Eating: Breast milk every couple hours. Sometime in the next few weeks we get to start solids, starting with rice cereal.

Sleeping: Lincoln can sleep up to five hours at night (and we don’t have to wake him up to eat anymore). During the day he often resists naps because he doesn’t want to miss out on anything!

Skills: Sitting up, while his lower back is supported by a pillow; bringing things to his mouth; true laughter.

No slideshow this month, but doesn’t Lincoln look hilariously cute in his Easter suit?

Evdeki hesap çarşıya uymadı (It Didn’t Turn Out as Planned)

2011-04-25T04:13:00.000-07:00

Evdeki hesap çarşıya uymadı It Didn’t Turn Out as Planned

In the Turkish-English dictionary the first word listed for “plan” is “plan.” Yes there are other more indigenous words to describe thoughts and intentions, but most common is the word plan borrowed from English. This, we think, is very telling of the culture. In other words, the idea of planning is a foreign concept. Now, as Americans it’s easy to put a judgment call on this. We might think, “He doesn’t value me because he changed plans last minute,” or “she is wishy-washy because she couldn’t commit to a time,” or “they are unorganized because they didn’t plan their family vacation until a few days in advance.” But wait…maybe those ideas are more cultural than universal. Maybe the social consciousness of Eurasian peoples is concerned with something other than the little second hand of a clock. We are amazed at what a difficult paradigm shift this is for us. And yet we have to admit that even when we do our best to make our very important plans unexpected things pop up. Like the Turks say, evdeki hesap çarşıya uymadı, “the calculations done at home didn’t match the reality of the market place.” I.e., it didn’t turn out as planned. And that is okay.

A day in Rebecca's life.

2011-04-18T03:11:00.000-07:00

A day in Rebecca's life.

Many people ask us, “What does your typical day look like?” This is a difficult question to answer because it seems like we are in an ebb and flowing tide—constant and yet ever-changing. Since Lincoln’s birth we’ve settled into a somewhat stereotypical lifestyle of Phillip going out to work and me staying at home with the baby. This doesn’t quite mesh with my personality, so we try to find creative ways of getting out of the house. In a typical morning I get up, somewhat sleepy-eyed, and feed Lincoln. He sits in his bouncer while I have my breakfast. Then we pick up the house a bit. Lincoln might have some “tummy time” or a nap while I do Pilates. We await ‘Daddy’s’ return for lunch. In the afternoons I shoot for some type of outing, maybe the park or tea at a neighbor’s. Sometimes Lincoln times it just right so that after he eats he has a super-poop, the diaper change during which he pees on his clothes and we have to change his entire outfit. This combined with assembling the diaper bag, quickly throwing a load of clothes into the washer machine, and reassuring Lincoln that I haven’t abandoned him whenever I step out of the room for a millisecond often leaves little time for our outing before his next meal time. Many veteran parents we’ve talked to assure us that this season passes, and quicker than we’d like. So in all these mundane moments, I treasure up the little things of Lincoln—the “good morning” smile when I first peek over the edge of his crib, the way he absently moves his fingers while eating, how he looks so cozy resting on Phillip’s chest—and wonder where the next current will take us.

Şehriye Çorbası (Vermicelli Soup)

2011-04-11T14:53:00.000-07:00

Auntie Ayşe’s Cookbook

Şehriye Çorbası Vermicelli Soup

Description: Our first memory of şehriye çorbası is from our first Ramadan here in Turkey. In the midst of a cornucopia of Turkish delicacies, this simple but delicious soup stood out, agreeable to the palette whether it’s holiday time or just an ordinary afternoon meal.

Ingredients:
1 Tbsp Butter
1 carrot, finely grated
2 peeled tomatos, blended (or 1 Tbsp Tomato Paste)
6 Cups Chicken Broth (or Water with Chicken Bouillon)
1 Cup Vermicelli Noodles
Salt to taste
Fresh Parsley
Lemon
Baguette style bread, sliced

Directions: Sautee the carrots and tomatoes with butter in a heated pot. Add the chicken broth and bring to a boil. Add the vermicelli noodles. Simmer until noodles are cooked. Salt to taste and garnish with fresh parsley and lemon. Serve with bread on the side.

Lincoln's Log: Three Month

2011-04-04T00:13:00.000-07:00

Age: Three Months

Quotes: Gerçek bebek mi, oyuncak bebek mi? “Is he a real baby, or a doll?” a lady on the street asked us the other day. In other words, our little guy is too cute to be true. As parents, it’s impossible to disagree! Although…the poopy diapers are a pretty good clue that he’s a real boy.

Height: 57 cm (about 22 ½ inches)

Weight: 5.1 kilos (about 11.3 pounds)

Eating: Lincoln hasn’t really gained weight since his last check up, so we’ve gone to a regime of more frequent feedings—strictly every two hours-- followed up by an ounce or two of formula. Our doctor explained that babies aren’t like predictable little machines, gaining exact amounts of weight per ounces of milk fed to him. He may just ‘play catch-up’ and gain a sufficient amount of weight by the next check up.

Sleeping: He was getting some stretches of four and five hours at night, but now we’re waking him up to eat.

Skills: Sitting up and sometimes even standing with (a lot of) help; starting to grasp things in his little palm; and our personal favorite, blowing bubbles with his spit.

visit Biraz Daha to see how Lincoln's baby photos compare to his parents!

Amerikan Konsolosu (The American Consulate)

2011-03-21T07:50:00.000-07:00

Amerikan Konsolosu The American Consulate

At a mere 8 days old we took Lincoln on his first wandering—to the U.S. Consulate. Being born to American parents, he was a U.S. citizen automatically, even though born abroad. However, within 31 days we were required to take him to the consulate to prove his existence, swear that he was our child, and fill out a report for U.S. Citizens Born Abroad—an application for his social security number, birth certificate, and first passport. (Whether Lincoln could one day become President of the United States, it seems, is a complex matter of jurisprudence dependent on the definition of “natural born citizen.”)

At a week old babies pretty much just sleep and eat all the time, neither activity of which is acceptable for a passport photo. No, Lincoln needed to be face forward and eyes open, with no one else in the background, which turned out to be quite a comical feat. Here was the final result:

Won’t it be interesting to see how much he has changed in the five years that this passport is valid? Meanwhile, we anticipate many wanderings within Turkey, America, and abroad.

Başınıza Sağ Olsun (Our Condolences)

2011-03-14T00:17:00.001-07:00

Başınıza Sağ Olsun Our Condolences

Of all cultural experiences one we would not have wished to attend is a funeral. Sadly in early winter our friend’s sister passed away after a long battle with cancer. It was heart wrenching to see the family mourning. The simple, expected condolences, başınıza sağ olsun, just didn’t seem like enough. We ask ourselves these questions...

1. What are the beliefs about afterlife and how do they influence the experience of living through a loved one’s death in our culture? In other cultures?

2. What rituals help people process their grief? How do family and friends partake in those rituals?

3. As outsiders to the prevalent culture and religion here, what can we do or say to console, to bring a sense of hope and peace to those who are mourning?

Fishy Morality

2011-03-07T10:39:00.000-08:00

“Fishy Morality”

Once a renowned philosopher and moralist was traveling through Nasrettin Hoca’s village and asked Nasrettin where there was a good place to eat. Nasrettin suggested a place and the scholar, hungry for conversation, invited Nasrettin Hoca to join him. Much obliged, Nasrettin Hoca accompanied the scholar to a nearby restaurant, where they asked the waiter about the special of the day.

"Fish! Fresh Fish!" replied the waiter.

"Bring us two," they requested.

A few minutes later, the waiter brought out a large platter with two cooked fish on it, one of which was quite a bit smaller than the other. Without hesitating, Nasrettin Hoca took the larger of the fish and put in on his plate. The scholar, giving Nasrettin Hoca a look of intense disbelief, proceed to tell him that what he did was not only flagrantly selfish, but that it violated the principles of almost every known moral, religious, and ethical system. Nasrettin Hoca listened to the philosopher's extempore lecture patiently, and when he had finally exhausted his resources, Nasrettin Hoca said,

"Well, Sir, what would you have done?"

"I, being a conscientious human, would have taken the smaller fish for myself." said the scholar.

"And here you are," Nasrettin Hoca said, and placed the smaller fish on the gentleman's plate.

Adapted from http://en.wikibooks.org/wiki/Sufism/Nasrudin

Lincoln's Log: Two Month

2011-02-28T13:19:00.000-08:00

Age: Two Months

Quotes: Üşümesin! With a widespread fear of the cold we often hear this warning from friends, neighbors, and strangers alike, “Make sure he doesn’t get cold!” It would seem here, getting cold is the evil of all evils, causing anything ranging from gas to premature death. So our little bundle of joy often finds himself quite bundled up indeed.

Height: 55 cm (almost 22 inches)

Weight: 5.14 kilos (about 11.3 pounds)

Eating: Maintaining the 2.5 to 3 hours (more or less). He doesn’t fall asleep quite as quickly when eating now, so every meal isn’t the marathon it used to be.

Sleeping: Lincoln has transitioned to sleeping in his own room now, and can (on occasion) sleep for a stretch of four hours at a time at night! All that to say, we’re all sleeping a little better.

Skills: Making Eye Contact (often with a little giggle or growl); Tracking dangling toys with his eyes (he loves his crib mobile); and his personal favorite: Sticking out his tongue.

See a few pictures of Lincoln's Life @ 2 months at Biraz Daha

Ağaç yaş iken eğilir (Bend the tree when it is young)

2011-02-21T11:36:00.000-08:00

Ağaç yaş iken eğilir Bend the tree when it is young

Just a couple weeks ago we were happy to host a Super Bowl party for a few American friends. Yes, watching American football live in Turkey! We are lucky, even if it meant that the game started at 1 AM. Ironically, it happened to be one of Lincoln Umut’s best night of sleeping. However, we (well, Phillip) made sure he was up for at least a little of the game.

There’s this Turkish proverb, ağaç yaş iken eğilir, which says, “Bend the tree when it is young.” The fledgling plant in the corner of our living room demonstrates such plant wisdom. Its desire for the light pulls it toward the window, but in doing so the plant becomes bent, misshapen. As plant owners we have placed a stick in the pot, tied a little purple string from stick to plant in hopes of nurturing an upright plant. As it grows, it still gets the light, but isn’t falling, bent and broken. We are guiding the plant while it is still young and pliable.

Obviously, this proverb isn’t really about plant-care. More profoundly, ağaç yaş iken eğilir, is stepping in line with the proverb we’ve heard since our own childhood, “Train a child in the way he should go and when he is old he will not turn from it.” That brings us back to American football...it’s never to early to teach a love of the game, right?

From King Solomon to Sultan Süleyman, there’s a lot of wisdom in these words. And as we take these proverbs seriously, really, there’s a lot more than just the love of football that we hope to guide our son in.

If we could take you to one place in İstanbul…Phillip's Choice

2011-02-14T05:26:00.000-08:00

If we could take you to one place in İstanbul…

Phillip's Choice: The Hagia Sophia

If I could take you one place in Istanbul, it would without a doubt be the Hagia Sophia. The Hagia Sopia (Greek for “Holy Wisdom”) was built AD 532-537 to be the main imperial church of the Roman Empire. In the 320’s AD Christianity had been made the official religion of the Roman Empire by Constantine the Great and Istanbul (Constantinople) was declared to be the new capital city of the empire. Emperor Justinian, who had the church built, wanted it to be the most incredible building the world had ever seen. The floor of the church is the size of 2.5 football fields and the ceilings of the church were covered with gold mosaics. It has a colossal central dome that is said to have “changed the history of architecture.” It has no supports directly under the dome, but is instead supported by a network of semi-domes and arches that spread out toward the walls of the church, giving the illusion that the dome is floating. The main columns in the church are thought to be the columns from the Temple of Artemis in Ephesus, one of the Seven Wonders of the Ancient World. When it was built, it was the largest cathedral in the world and remained so for nearly a thousand years. Today it is still the fourth largest cathedral in the world. The Hagia Sophia is considered by many to be the zenith of Roman/Byzantine architectural engineering.

In AD 1453, when the city was conquered by the Ottoman Turks, the Hagia Sophia was converted into a mosque. The Turks were so impressed with it that it served as a model for nearly every mosque they’ve built over the last 600 years. In fact, still today nearly every mosque not only in Turkey, but in the entire world, is built using the same basic model with a dome placed above the central prayer area.

Most impressive to me is that nearly 1,500 years later the Hagia Sophia is not only still standing but is in amazing condition. There is so much more I could say about the Hagia Sophia… but you’ll just have to come and let me take you there...

Phillip played tour guide at the Hagia Sophia for Rebecca's sister and brother-in-law during their visit this January.

Kahvaltı (Turkish Breakfast)

2011-02-07T06:06:00.000-08:00

One of the benefits of getting to know our neighbors has been the steady give and take of dishes from their apartment to ours and back, giving us the opportunity to taste test good old Turkish home cookin’. These dishes are often so good we’ve enlisted Auntie Ayşe upstairs to teach us how to make some of them. Now from our home to yours, enjoy an occasional recipe from…

Auntie Ayşe’s Cookbook

Kahvaltı Turkish Breakfast

Description: Although this is not much of a “recipe,” a full sampling of Turkish cuisine would start with the day’s most important meal: breakfast.

Ingredients:
Baguette style bread, sliced
Boiled Eggs
Cucumber, sliced
Goat Cheese
Homemade Jam
Hot Black Tea
Olives
Salami (definitely not pork)
Seasonal Fruit
Tomatoes

Directions: Spread ingredients on the table and enjoy with lively conversation.

Lincoln's Log: One Month

2011-01-31T04:33:00.000-08:00

Age: One Month

Quotes: Çirkin and Şirin. Ugly and Charming. These are two of the comments of admiration that Lincoln Umut often gets from our Turkish neighbors. Though it breaks a mother’s heart to hear her son called ugly, we suspect that they are just teasing and possibly even protecting our son. In some cultures unflattering nicknames are thought to keep evil spirits’ attention from being drawn to children. But then again, we can’t help ourselves by also calling him a sweet, charming little guy. Good thing we believe God’s angels are protecting him.

Height: 53 cm (almost 20 inches)

Weight: 4.575 kilos (about 10 pounds)

Eating: Exclusively mom’s milk, eating about every 2.5 to 3 hours (sometimes sooner), both day and night.

Sleeping: Sporadic during the day, but in 2-3 hour chunks during the night with the occasional middle of the night awake period.

Skills: Spitting up; Arm flailing; Holding his head up for a few seconds, Very charming glances; Telling us when he’s hungry (starting with lip smacking, moving on to trying to eat his hands, and then the full-blown cry, and believe us, this little guy has lungs!).

Umut (Hope, Expectation)

2011-01-24T01:02:00.000-08:00

Umut Hope, Expectation

Umut (pronounced Oomoot), a common Turkish boy’s name, means hope or expectation. Those words exactly described how we felt as we waited for our first son to be born. Now it is hard to believe that a month has gone by since his birth. Starting out at 7 pounds, 6 ounces and 19.7 inches long, Lincoln Umut Clarence Mefford is growing before our eyes. We’ll let you know how much after his one month check-up at the doctor’s. Meanwhile, enjoy a few photos from his birth and first few weeks of life outside the womb at Biraz Daha.

Lincoln Umut's first moment of life outside the womb.

Marbles

2011-01-17T10:36:00.000-08:00

“Marbles”

Two children found a bag containing twelve marbles. They argued over how to divide the toys and finally went to see Nasrettin Hoca. When asked to settle their disagreement, Nasrettin Hoca asked whether the children wanted him to divide the marbles as a human would or as Allah would.

The children replied, "We want it to be fair. Divide the marbles as Allah would."

So, Nasrettin Hoca counted out the marbles and gave three to one child and nine to the other.

Adapted from http://en.wikibooks.org/wiki/Sufism/Nasrudin

Two Sides of a River

2011-01-10T10:06:00.000-08:00

As you might imagine, we’re a little preoccupied right now, so over the next few weeks we’ll post a few Nasrettin Hoca anecdotes for your enjoyment. Don’t worry, baby updates and cultural insights are on the way! Meanwhile, here’s a short Nasrettin Hoca story.

“Two Sides of a River”

Nasrettin Hoca sat on a river bank when someone shouted to him from the opposite side:

- "Hey! how do I get to the other side?"

- "You are on the other side!" Nasreddin shouted back.

Adapted from http://en.wikibooks.org/wiki/Sufism/Nasrudin

Mutlu Yıllar (Happy New Year!)

2010-12-27T07:21:00.000-08:00

Mutlu Yıllar Happy New Year!

It is hard to believe another year has gone by. In the first entry of 2010 we introduced the phrase “leyleği havada gördü,” like the stork we are always on the move, taking in as much of this place as we can. And now we are thinking of a different kind of stork—the kind that comes to your doorstep with a little bundle of joy. In light of that, it is difficult to anticipate what 2011 will be like, but one thing is certain: our Turkish neighbors will have their doors open and tea brewing in tiered pots (except now we won’t be the center of attention any more!).

Our family looks forward to journeying through 2011 with you.
Enjoy the New Year’s celebrations!

Our tea glasses are ready for a refill!

Noel Baba (Santa Claus)

2010-12-20T07:02:00.000-08:00

Noel Baba Santa Claus

Among its plethora of historically significant features, modern-day Turkey boasts the home of the real Saint Nicholas, Demre, what was once included in the Roman province of Asia. Although tourist maps distinguish this location with the red-clad commercial Santa Claus, reputable sources recognize that there was a bona fide Nicholas of Myra who was very devout, generous to the poor, and at least generally depicted with a beard.

We haven’t personally wandered down to Santa’s home town, and we are not ones to venerate statues of people long gone, but we can appreciate this person who had a giving-spirit. Thinking about it, the movies depict Santa Claus as being innately benevolent (who wouldn’t be if you had a workshop of expert toy-making elves at your command), but we have a suspicion there was something motivating this Saint Nicholas; a model of true gift-giving, of true sacrificial generosity. Though we can’t know what really shaped a man so enshrouded in legend to become who he was, we have a guess at why his personality has developed into a beacon of generosity during the holiday season. That catalyst, that reason is what we are really celebrating.

May the true gift-giver bless you this season.
Merry Christmas

Hazır mısınız? (Are you ready?)

2010-12-13T06:34:00.000-08:00

Hazır mısınız? Are you ready?

As of this week we are at “term pregnancy” meaning that if the little one shows up any time between now and the due date he will not be considered premature. His little body is just about ready to be born, and we hope we’re ready too!

We’ve discussed a birth plan with our doctor, the nursery is set up, and grandma and grandpa are on their way…We’ve been pondering:

1. The amazing way God has designed our bodies to form inside our mother’s wombs.

2. How can we help our family and friends feel apart of our son’s birth and growth as a child when we live so far away?

3. How can we do a great job at raising a third culture kid (TCK), whose passport will be American but who will start his life in a different country? In what ways can we help him prepare for being not quite Turkish and yet not 100% American? How can we encourage him to speak the language and culture of Turkey, while at the same time preserving his blood nationality?

Balkabaği (Pumpkin)

2010-12-06T02:42:00.000-08:00

Balkabaği Pumpkin

There is a Turkish desert served in the fall which simply consists of cut pumpkin covered with syrup and crushed walnuts. To our taste buds, it’s not quite the caliber of pumpkin pie, but there is something comforting in having the same produce available here that we can get back home in the States. And so, with fall fading and winter proceeding, pumpkin patches and corn mazes long in our memories, we want to share another Nasrettin Hoca (Teacher Nasrettin) anecdote with you:

“The Great Pumpkin”

Nasrettin Hoca was lying in the shade of an ancient walnut tree. His body was at rest, but, befitting his calling as an imam, his mind did not relax. Looking up into the mighty tree he considered the greatness and wisdom of Allah.

"Allah is great and Allah is good," said the Hoca, "but was it indeed wise that such a great tree as this be created to bear only tiny walnuts as fruit? Behold the stout stem and strong limbs. They could easily carry the great pumpkins that grow from spindly vines in yonder field, vines that cannot begin to bear the weight of their own fruit. Should not walnuts grow on weakly vines and pumpkins on sturdy trees?"

So thinking, the Hoca dozed off, only to be awakened by a walnut that fell from the tree, striking him on his forehead.

"Allah be praised!" he exclaimed, seeing what had happened. "If that had been a pumpkin that fell on my head, it would have killed me for sure! God is merciful! He has rearranged nature only to spare my life."

Adapted from http://en.wikibooks.org/wiki/Sufism/Nasrudin

Şükran (Thanksgiving)

2010-11-29T04:11:00.000-08:00

Şükran Thanksgiving

This has to be one of the most exciting last two months of any year in our life to date. There is the annual holiday season, of course, that always lends a sense of cheer—Thanksgiving, Christmas, and New Year’s. Plus sacrifice holiday known in Turkish as Kurban Bayramı (and in other parts of the world as Eid) fell mid-November this year. And then there is a birthday we can’t wait to celebrate. In the midst of families coming together, feasts being prepared, and presents handed out, we’d like to list just a few things that we are thankful for:

1. Grandmas—we have three living Grandmas, each of whom have enriched our lives with their models of strength, joy, and unrelenting ability to love. Now our moms get to be “grandma” to our son!

2. Books—whether it is a novel or an information books to learn about things handling culture stress or baby-care, books provide a relaxing moment, help pass the time on the bus, or prepare us for new transitions.

3. Meat—although fine grade, meat is expensive here! That is one of the reasons why Kurban Bayramı is so special—an animal is butchered and its meat is feasted on as well as given to those too poor to afford meat at their regular meals.

4. Imported Goods— we have never been so excited to find a package of granola bars or bottle of barbeque sauce before. Even if it costs and arm and a leg, we can find a surprising amount of imported goods here that give a little comfort when we’re missing ‘home.’

5. Health—slightly threatened with the onslaught of holiday sweets, we are extremely thankful to be in good health. We are so thankful that as far as the doctors can tell, our little one is happy and healthy in the womb.

6. New Perspectives—there is nothing like living in a different culture that so profoundly confronts you with your own ideas, assumptions, and world view. Since coming to Turkey some of our perspectives have changed, and others have become more solidified. Sometimes the process of change or cementation feels like a struggle, but it is worth it.

Asya’dan Avrupa’ya (From Asia to Europe)

2010-11-22T02:39:00.000-08:00

Asya’dan Avrupa’ya From Asia to Europe

There are several things that Turks notably love to do: eat sunflower seeds, grill out, spontaneous public folk dancing to the tune of the Black Sea bagpipe and drum, smoke cigarettes, and just go for a stroll. About a month ago we witnessed masses of İstanbulites doing these very things and more on one of the İstanbul skyline’s most prominent features, the Bosporus Bridge. One day every October, all vehicles are blocked from the bridge (normally closed to pedestrians) to make way for the Annual Intercontinental Marathon. As you can imagine, we weren’t quite up for the marathon, but along with thousands of other sane people, we tailed behind in a nice stroll from the Asian continent to the European continent. The weather was beautiful, the atmosphere exciting, and it was just fun to see how much everyone was truly enjoying themselves, sunflower seeds, spontaneous folk dancing and all.

Yirmiyedi (Twenty-seven)

2010-11-15T02:26:00.000-08:00

Yirmiyedi Twenty-seven

Rebecca turns 27 today, and our lives are at a juncture. We are finishing formal language classes this fall, and feel like we are no where close to fluency. We are getting ready to plunge into full time parenthood. And we are still trying to figure out what our non-Turkish-learning and non-parental roles are. There is much to ponder…

1. How do we navigate these inevitable junctures in life?

2. How can we reach fluency, now that the formal studying is done, especially with our new little “distraction” on the way?

3. How can we best devote our lives to being the best parents ever (thank God we have good role models!)?

Terlik (Slippers)

2010-11-08T02:19:00.000-08:00

Terlik Slippers

The downside to living in a foreign country is not having our families next door to share every experience with, particularly now that we are having a child. Although it can’t be compared to the real deal, of some compensation is that our little one already has at least three Turkish grandma’s and a menagerie of aunts and uncles that are enthusiastic about sharing pregnancy and parenting advice, most prominently, “wear your slippers!” There is a common belief in Central Eurasia that cold feet are fatal. Neglecting to wear socks (and/or sitting on the ground) is enough to make a woman’s ovaries shrivel up. But we shouldn’t smirk; in Turkey you won’t “catch your death’s cold” if you go out in the rain. We suppose that anywhere you are in the world you have to take advice with a grain of salt. The bottom line is we know that people care.

Much thanks again to the American "aunts" that threw me a baby shower!

Bebek Nasıl? (How is the baby?)

2010-11-03T07:43:00.001-07:00

Bebek nasıl? How is the baby?

There is a beautiful phrase our Turkish friends use to congratulate expecting or new parents, Allah analı babalı büyütsün-- May God allow this child to be raised under his parent’s care. It really is amazing to see how God is growing our little one, even before he is born. From the size of a poppy seed working his way to a watermelon, we have thoroughly enjoyed tracking in utero our baby’s progress and development. Thankfully we live close to one of the best hospitals in the region and eagerly attend our monthly check-ups. At only 6 weeks along, the baby being the size of an apple seed, we could already see and hear a heartbeat. Around week 12 we found out that we are having a son. During the fifth month ultrasound we got to see our baby practice one of his most adorable skills—yawning. By month seven he had become a practiced kick-boxer. So far mom and baby are healthy and right on schedule.

Only two months until the due date of January 2nd! Along with all the well-wishes of our Turkish friends, we pray that we can both provide a good, loving home as the little one keeps growing.

View September’s ultrasound at http://vimeo.com/15216517

Pregnancy Sites we look at:
www.americanpregnancy.org
www.thebump.com
www.whattoexpect.com

Nemrut Dağı (Mount Nemrut)

2010-10-25T11:02:00.000-07:00

Nemrut Dağı Mount Nemrut

Over 2000 years ago there was a relatively small, unimportant kingdom in Southcentral Turkey called Commagene, ruled by the maniacal King Antiochus I. Even though it was merely a buffer state between the greater Roman and Persian empires, King Antiochus I refused to be hidden in the shadows of history. He chose the summit of the 7,000 plus foot mount Nemrut to craft an elaborate tomb for himself, layered over with thousands of tons of shale and guarded to the east and to the west by giant statues of his favorite gods (himself being one of the gods).

Today the shale mound still shrouds Antiochus’ supposed burial place (which no one has yet to find a way into) and the stone gods lie in ruins, remaining an intriguing and mysterious place to where travelers from all over the world seek to come. As recommended we approached Mount Nemrut’s summit at sunset, marveling at the uncanny combination of ingenuity and self-absorption of this petty king.

from the Wanderings (summer 2010) slideshow at Biraz Daha:

Though Antiochus and his gods' decapitated stone heads now rest beneath their thrones, his tomb still remains safe from plunderers and archeologists.

Efsane (Legend)

2010-10-18T10:58:00.000-07:00

Efsane Legend

In the center of Şanlıurfa, a city in Southeastern Turkey near the biblical site of Haran, there is a legendary lake believed to have been created when the prophet Abraham was launched from a giant catapult by the cruel King Nimrod into what was supposed to be a giant pile of burning wood. Miraculously the fire was transformed into a lake full of holy carp, which is commonly today known as Balıklı Göl, or Fish Lake.* Not only is it a favorite site for visitors and city residents who want to go on a nice evening stroll, but it is also seen as a holy place.

We found it intriguing on visiting this site to hear a story that seems such a far stretch from the stories about Abraham that we learned growing up. It makes us wonder:

1. Where do these stories originate? How do such legends develop?

2. What makes a place a holy place?

3. How do we appreciate/respect holy places that are not our own?

*This legend we first read in Insight Guides: Turkey, was later confirmed to us by several Turkish friends.

from the Wanderings (summer 2010) slideshow at Biraz Daha:

Rebecca relaxes by the sacred pool of holy carp.

Ankara (Ankara)

2010-10-11T10:51:00.000-07:00

Ankara Ankara

On our way back home we were able to drive through Turkey’s capitol. Known mostly as a community for government officials, Ankara’s most popular site for visitors is the Anıtkabir, a museum over-viewing Turkey’s fight to become a nation and the mausoleum of its revered first leader, Mustafa Kemal Atatürk.

The Turkish Republic was formed in the wake of World War I. As the Turkish Ottoman Empire fell to the Allies and its sprawling land was divided amongst nations Atatürk rallied the Turkish army to take back what they felt to be theirs, including İstanbul. Since the formation of the nation of Turkey Atatürk and his successors have implemented drastic changes to create the modern state that it is today.

What an interesting thing it is to be living in a country, amongst a culture that has such a long, rich history via the Ottoman Empire and yet such a young, emergent national structure in the modern-day Turkish Republic.

from the Wanderings (summer 2010) slideshow at Biraz Daha:

The Anıtkabir is a must-see when passing through Ankara.

*For more details, visit Turkey Travel Planner.

Bebek (Baby)

2010-10-04T10:46:00.000-07:00

Bebek Baby

As we traveled this summer we visited friends and acquaintances when we could. If you know anything about Turkish people, you will know that their doors are always wide open to friends and guests. Often when leaving someone’s home they will say yine bekliyoruz, meaning “come again” or “we await your return.” However, there is one house from which we did not get this customary farewell:

Last summer in a village outside of Antakya we were curious to observe a woman making fresh bread in an outdoor, community tandoor oven. Of course after a few moments the woman not only offered their bread to us, but urged us to come to their house for tea. We visited with them for awhile, being quietly served by two out of eight or so of the woman’s children. She inquired how long we were married—it had been about a year and three months at that point. Immediately, with a bit of shock in her voice she asked why we didn’t have any children yet. In her mind 15 months was more than enough time! And so, as we were leaving, she invited us back only on the condition that we would have at least two children by the next time we visited!

Well... we’re moving toward being able to visit them again. Earlier this year we were happy to learn that Rebecca is pregnant, and now at 28 weeks along, she and the baby are doing great. The little one is due around New Years, scheduled to be born at a good hospital here in İstanbul. This may seem over-due to the villagers in Antakya, but for us, giving ourselves time to settle into marriage and life in another country considered, the timing is perfect.

Mardin (Mardin)

2010-09-27T22:42:00.000-07:00

Mardin Mardin

On the slope of a mountain rising up from the Mesopotamian plains rests the city of Mardin, a city rich with history dating back to the Hittites, if not before, fascinating flat-roofed buildings carved from limestone, and a menagerie of minarets and bell towers. Though we were staying in a modest guest house, even that building was at least 300 years old and beautifully set in stone. Looking out over the plains you could see even as far as Syria. Just outside of the city is Deyrul Zarafan Monastery, home to Syrian Orthodox Christians since the fifth century, and still offering prayers services daily. Fifteen minutes or so from there is Dara, the location of Persian King Darius’ summer palace. Within the city there is a military fortress, museums, and a number of ancient religious schools, mosques, and churches, but we think that the best thing about Mardin was meeting the people who live there. From the guest house owner, who was a wealth of knowledge on the history of the city, to the Syrian family who invited us in for coffee, we found Mardin and its people to be a beautiful place.

from the Wanderings (summer 2010) slideshow at Biraz Daha:

Mardin; the modern part of the city rests below at the foot of the hill, but the old city is securely on the raising mountain side.

Felsefe (Philosophy)

2010-09-20T10:39:00.000-07:00

Felsefe Philosophy

One of the places that we passed through was Konya, a city in central Turkey most commonly known for being the resting place of Mevlana Celaleddin Rumi, a philosopher and mystic who founded the Whirling Dervish sect. In looking through some of his illustrious quotes, we came across this:

“If you are irritated by every rub, how will you be polished?”

So we ponder,

1. What “rubs” are we experiencing that are really making us better?

2. When we are irritated by a “rub,” but know that it is developing us personally, how do we look at it with a better attitude and cope with it?

3. What wisdom can we take from the ancient philosophers and what should we leave in the dust?

from the Wanderings (summer 2010) slideshow at Biraz Daha:

The mausoleum of Mevlana from a distance.

Kaynak Suyu (Spring Water)

2010-09-13T10:34:00.000-07:00

Kaynak Suyu Spring Water

Turkey abounds with natural spring water. Because of this there are fountains dotting the country, often built by the one who discovered the spring as a service to the community and act of merit to God. We came to realize that for our Turkish friends, visiting the local springs to wash your face and drink the soothingly cool water is a favorite activity. While hanging out with Turkish friends, both lounging at the spring-side tea garden in Balıkesir and during several spontaneous stops at a road-side springs in the Ankara region, we witnessed fountains bustling with men and women, young and old, filling water bottles to take home, washing fruit, and just cooling off from the summer heat. We have to admit that we are a little unaccustomed to getting our water from the ground (and, truthfully, a little skeptical of some of the rusty pipes we saw sticking out of the fountains), but we appreciate our friends’ enthusiasm for the springs. Maybe in becoming such modern city-dwellers we’re losing sight of what it means to have the natural refreshment of the water that God has provided so simply.

from the Wanderings (summer 2010) slideshow at Biraz Daha:

The water is refreshing in so many ways!

Yolda (On the Road)

2010-09-06T10:06:00.000-07:00

Yolda On the Road

Last summer a few of our friends, practiced foreigners living in Turkey (with, not to mention, impeccable Turkish) invited us to explore a few different regions of the country with them. Traveling to the various provinces allowed us to see the cultural idiosyncrasies of the different areas, taste traditional regional foods, grasp the rich history of the land, and make a few new Turkish friends.

With language school and other imminent responsibilities awaiting us this fall, we decided to take a couple weeks of our “summer break” to thus broaden our perspective on Turkey as a whole as well as make use of our burgeoning Turkish vocabularies. Our final destination was Mardin, as city in south-east Turkey that we can now confirm is one of the most interesting places in the country. But, as our Turkish friends say, geze geze gidiyorduk—we wandered as we went, visiting friends, sampling famous foods, and taking lots of pictures!

See our Wanderings (summer 2010) slideshow at Biraz Daha, and anticipate more about what we learned in the weeks to come.

Waiting for a ferry across the Euphrates River.

Nasrettin Hoca (Teacher Nasrettin)

2010-08-30T07:16:00.000-07:00

Nasrettin Hoca Teacher Nasrettin

Nasrettin Hoca is the primary figure in Turkish folklore, thought to have been born in Western Turkey in the 13th century (though many throughout Central Asia and the Middle East also claim him for their own). Nasrettin Hoca’s numerous anecdotes are told from tea-house to family room and thought to give pithy morals or, more commonly, just to provoke a laugh. Here is one story about the teacher:

“Last Wishes”

Nasrettin Hoca is with his friends drinking coffee. They are discussing death, "When you are in your casket and friends and family are mourning upon you, what would you like to hear them say about you?"

The first friend says, "I would like to hear them say that I was a great doctor of my time, and a great family man."

The second says, "I would like to hear that I was a wonderful husband and school teacher which made a huge difference in our children of tomorrow."

Nasrettin says, "I would like to hear them say... LOOK!! HE'S MOVING!!!"

Adapted from http://en.wikibooks.org/wiki/Sufism/Nasrudin.

Nasrettin Hoca is often portrayed riding backwards on a donkey.

Sahil (The coast)

2010-08-23T07:07:00.000-07:00

Sahil The coast

A few weeks ago we took advantage of a nice, sunny Saturday to go to the coast, which fortunately is not a long trip. By a short bus ride and brief jaunt on the train we reached the shores of the Sea of Marmara, and still had not reached the outer edge of İstanbul. Phillip brought his roller-blades and Rebecca her camera, but we started the outing somewhat aimlessly. It was not long before some children were flagging the camera woman down to get a great action-shot of them diving into the water. The photo-shoot turned into a conversation, which turned into an invitation to join their family for some freshly retrieved mussels that they were boiling in a large tin can. After an hour or so the children’s young mother was giving an early invitation to come to their house for Ramadan to enjoy some home-baked baklava. What we intended to be a nice day ended up being a wonderful day. Once again, we are inspired by the warmth and hospitality of the people of Turkey.

Ramazan (Ramadan)

2010-08-16T06:56:00.000-07:00

Ramazan Ramadan
This year August 10th ushered in the ninth month of the Islamic calendar, beginning a month long holiday of fasting and feasting known as Ramazan. In İstanbul there are enough people who do not participate that restaurants are still open, but the majority of our friends and neighbors are refraining from food and drink from sunrise until sunset. When the sun sets, however, a great family feast is held.

Holidays are a very special time to connect with people. We ponder:

1. What can we learn about Turkish culture, family life, values, and food during this holiday?

2. What is our place, as guests in this country, in participating in this holiday?

3. How can we invite our Turkish friends to celebrate the holidays that are important to us?

Begin the food preparations for the evening meal!

Ekmek (Bread)

2010-08-09T06:49:00.000-07:00

Ekmek Bread
You can find great bread in Turkey from the bagel-like sesame coated simit sold on every street corner to morning poğaça stuffed with feta cheese or potato to the broad, flat disks of ramazan pide sold during Ramadan. Then there is the every-day baguette type of loaf that is often brought to your door every evening by the apartment groundskeeper. Apparently Turkey hasn’t fully caught the “carb-scare” yet, and that is okay with us.

Though it may not be unique for bread to be a staple-food, something we find interesting is the reverence with which people here understand bread. It is seen as the sacred symbol of the nourishment that God provides. In fact, it is thought of as a sin to throw bread away. If it is on your plate you eat it, if a loaf has gone stale you feed it to the birds.

This kind of gratitude for the basics of life is refreshing—a constant reminder to not waste, but give thanks.

Unused breads people left for the birds or street cats and dogs.

Bizim Adımız Phillip ve Rebecca (Our Names are Phillip and Rebecca)

2010-08-02T06:41:00.000-07:00

Bizim Adımız Phillip ve Rebecca
Our Names are Phillip and Rebecca

Phillip and Rebecca have been married for a little over two years, spending three-quarters of their married life together in İstanbul, Turkey. During their time in İstanbul many friends have come across Phillip and Rebecca’s path—from young moms with exuberant pre-schoolers to university students with promising futures to the “average joe” trying to make ends-meet. Something they really like about all these Turkish friends is that they seem to want to share their lives with Phillip and Rebecca, from joining holiday meals to confiding about family struggles. Of course, even a year and a half isn’t nearly enough to adjust to all the cultural nuances, much less the language of a place like Turkey. But it is a good start...

We hope you enjoyed “meeting” some of our new friends this summer in the Benim Adım series.

İstanbul’s summers are often sunny, clear, and warm (on average in the mid-80 degrees F). See our new slideshow with a few impressions of this city in this season, ‘Summer in İstanbul,’ at Biraz Daha.

Benim Adım Gül (My Name is Rose)

2010-07-26T03:39:00.000-07:00

Benim Adım Gül
My Name is Rose

Gül is a big girl now. At six and a half she is going to school, a great outlet for her social side. Until last September Gül spent her days with her mom and baby sister. If it was warm enough outside they would go to the park or play in the garden with the other neighbor girls her age. When she’s home Gül loves visitors—especially the foreigner couple who moved in upstairs a year and a half ago. They can’t understand most of the things she says to them, but she can get them to laugh anyway with her silly antics. Her favorite things to do with her foreigner friends are play beauty shop or sing them the songs she learns at school. Sometimes Gül’s mom makes her stop playing with the foreigners so they can talk about grown up stuff over tea, but most of the time she wins everyone’s attention. A special day for Gül this year was Children’s Day, April 23rd. When Atatürk founded the nation he gave this holiday as a gift to children, the future of Turkey. She still remembers the poem she learned for her school program:

Yirmi üç Nisan egemenlik bizimdir The great April 23 belongs to us
Düğün şenlik bizimdir The cheerful celebration is ours
Bu esenlik bizimdir Well-being is ours
Geldi yirmi üç Nisan April 23 has come
Süslenip, giyinelim, Let’s get all dressed up
Coşkuyla övünelim With exuberance let’s be proud
Geldi yirmi üç Nisan April 23 has come
Bayrakları alalım, Let’s buy national flags
Alanları dolalım Let’s gather together
Hepimiz bir olalım Together, we’ll be as one
Geldi yirmi üç Nisan. April 23 has come.

Though based on real life, the name and many details of this person’s life are fictitious.

Benim Adım Cem (My Name is Cem)

2010-07-19T03:36:00.000-07:00

Benim Adım Cem
My Name is Cem

Cem just graduated from university and is getting ready for askerlik, military duty. All male Turkish citizens have compulsory non-paid military service, and while Cem normally would have had to serve as a private for fifteen months, having earned a university degree reduces the time required of him to six months. He spent four years living in a dormitory, studying at İstanbul University, in the last year dating a beautiful Turkish girl, and meeting people from all walks of life, including a young couple of Americans with whom he could practice his English. Now that the graduation celebrations have come to an end, it’s time to go to his hometown in central Turkey and prepare for duty. Serving in the military is seen as a right of passage for Turkish men; because of this, Cem’s parents are planning a big farewell celebration. There will be a feast, traditional music and dancing, and a tray of henna, a plant-based dye the soldier-to-be will dip his little finger in to signify his new responsibility. Cem will probably make friends for life with his fellow soldiers, but right now it’s hard to see that. Really, he wants to get back to his girlfriend and exciting metropolitan life in İstanbul as soon as possible. Although, that also means something possibly even scarier than going into the military for a few months: finding a job and starting life in the real world! Daunting as that can be, Cem is young, full of life, and ready for what lays ahead of him.

Though based on real life, the name and many details of this person’s life are fictitious.

Benim Adım Nurcan (My Name is Nurcan)

2010-07-12T03:33:00.000-07:00

Benim Adım Nurcan
My Name is Nurcan

Nurcan goes to church on Sundays instead of mosque on Fridays. She decided to be Christian in her early adult years, which has baffled most of her family and friends. Some Turkish Christians have Greek Orthodox or Syrian Christian backgrounds which makes sense, but for a Muslim person to choose a different religion is almost unthinkable. Although her family still accepts her into their home, they are hoping she is just going through a phase. Though bold in making such an independent decision, Nurcan has quite an unassuming personality. She works at a menial job to help the income flow of her family, fills cupboards with things her and her mother have knitted to pass the time together, makes a mean cup of Turkish coffee, and has a secret enthusiasm for cute clothes. She met an American girl, and even though their worlds seem so far apart, Nurcan wants to be her friend. Even though she has less education, less money, and knows the difficulties of being a religious minority in a way the American girl can never understand, Nurcan has displayed love instead of resentment, generosity instead of greed, and joy instead of discouragement.

Though based on real life, the name and many details of this person’s life are fictitious.

Benim Adım Kemal (My Name is Kemal)

2010-07-05T03:26:00.000-07:00

Benim Adım Kemal
My Name is Kemal

Kemal works hard with little pay, but at least he has a job.* In İstanbul instead of going to the nearest Goodwill or Value Village people either leave their old junk out by the dumpster for Gypsies to take or they give it to a guy like Kemal who works as an eskici, what we might call a ‘junker.’ Every day he roams around the neighborhood, pushing a large wooden cart, calling out “eskici!” After a full day of collecting, he somehow turns the scraps of useless items into an income for himself and the young wife his parents back home in the village found for him. Most Turkish men in İstanbul work 12 or more hours per day, six days a week, and many have a reason to feel unhappy with this necessity, but Kemal always has a smile on his face and a positive attitude. Being in charge of his own schedule, when the call to prayer sounds, he can take time out to go to the mosque if he wants to. Also, he gets many opportunities to socialize with other men in the community since he’s always around. There is a young American guy who moved to the neighborhood a year or so ago that he has become friends with. Kemal jokingly challenged the American to do eskici work for a day to see what it’s like, and he really did it! It was so funny seeing this American huff and puff as he pushed Kemal’s cart up the steep roads. Maybe Kemal didn’t have the luxury of going to university, or traveling abroad, or learning another language, but he has his family, his religion, and with his old wooden cart, he’s making a living.

Though based on real life, the name and many details of this person’s life are fictitious.

*According to the Hurriyet DailyNews.com the beginning of this year saw a record high unemployment rate of 13.6% in Turkey: http://www.hurriyet.com.tr/english/finance/11223018.asp.

Benim Adım Cengis (My Name is Gengis)

2010-06-28T05:00:00.000-07:00

Benim Adım Cengis
My Name is Gengis

Cengis is one of the many Turkish men who spent his childhood in Germany, where his parents were able to find good jobs. He had the privilege of extensive travels and an education abroad, although most trips were back to his family’s hometown in Turkey to visit relatives—a chance to reconnect with his roots. With a solid work ethic, Cengis was able to start his own business once he graduated from university. He brought the thriving business back to Turkey’s economic capitol, İstanbul, along with a beautiful European wife. Of course he appreciated all the places and cultures he’s been able to experience, but at heart he is a true Turk. Like most Turkish men Cengis works hard, eats heartily, keeps tabs on his favorite pro soccer team, and enjoys talking about politics and conspiracy theories. He likes to inform his American friends about all the intrigues their government is involved in. He also is proud of his Ottoman Turkish heritage, but self-conscious of the idea that not everyone understands its greatness. Cengis would definitely identify himself as a Muslim—after all, his father and his great Ottoman ancestors were Muslim. At the same time, he would admit that he is not devout. He has dogs as pets, drinks rakı, a Turkish alcohol made from anise seed (the same thing black licorice is made from), and rarely goes to mosque, but he would never stoop so low as to eat pork. In these ways Cengis may be called a walking contradiction, and yet he represents many Turkish men just like him. On a broader spectrum, perhaps he just represents men in general, for what does any other man want in this world but to be successful in their job, happy with their wife, and pleased with food, sports, and politics?

Though based on real life, the name and many details of this person’s life are fictitious.

Benim Adım Fatma Hanım (My Name is Mrs. Fatma)

2010-06-21T03:22:00.000-07:00

Benim Adım Fatma Hanım
My Name is Mrs. Fatma

Fatma Hanım grew up in a village about 300 miles East of İstanbul. At the age of 14 she became a gelin, a bride. In Turkey a woman is not only referred to as a gelin on her wedding day, but for the rest of her life. As is quite common, this young gelin moved in with her husband’s family where her mother-in-law taught her how to cook and take care of a home. Eventually she had four children, two sons and two daughters, and now she has gelins of her own. At some point the entire family moved to İstanbul where there are more opportunities for work and education. They lived thirty minutes apart from her in-laws at first, but when her husband retired Fatma Hanım and her family moved into an apartment her father-in-law provided them with. Now she spends the day keeping up her house, keeping up with her granddaughter, knitting, and drinking tea with her sister-in-laws who also live in the building. Fatma Hanım has also taken the young American neighbor under her wing, teaching her how to cook Turkish dishes like stuffed eggplant, sautéed leek, and local soups from her village. Despite the grey hair that pokes out from under her headscarf and homebody lifestyle, she has a mischievous glint in her eye that betrays a young heart and zest for life.

Though based on real life, the name and many details of this person’s life are fictitious.

Benim Adım Merve (My Name is Merve)

2010-06-14T03:12:00.000-07:00

Benim Adım Merve

My Name is Merve

Merve is a modern, secular Turk. Although she would probably identify herself as a Muslim, she does not wear a headscarf and her dress is more European. Like most Turkish women, the signature “blue bead”, which is believed to protect against misfortune by warding off evil spirits, is often worn on a piece of jewelry. And, like any woman from Alaska to Zimbabwe in her late 20’s, Merve is still hoping for a trustworthy man to come and sweep her off her feet-- but she is not going to sit around pining away. She has seen a lot of the world; while many İstanbulites haven’t even made it to the other side of the city, Merve has been fortunate enough to spend a few years studying abroad.* Even returning with a master’s degree as well as a good grasp on the English language, the job market for young professionals is competitive and she is having a difficult time finding a job in her field of study. As is common, Merve will probably live with her parents until that knight in shining armor finds her. And though many Turkish parents still arrange marriages for their children, in this family it is her own quest. Meanwhile, Merve finds independence and leisure in her active social life. She even has a new American friend to hang out with and loves showing off all the nooks and crannies of this never sleeping metropolis of a city.

Though based on real life, the name and many details of this person’s life are fictitious.

*According to the Republic of Turkey’s Ministry of Foreign Affairs in 2009 130,000 Turkish citizens studied abroad, approximately 1/5 of which went to

Germany

: http://www.mfa.gov.tr/the-expatriate-turkish-citizens.en.mfa

Benim Adım Abdullah (My Name is Abdullah)

2010-06-07T12:46:00.000-07:00

Benim Adım Abdullah
My Name is Abdullah

Abdullah has lived in the same neighborhood his entire life seeing quiet fields transform into multi-story apartment buildings, as is indicative of İstanbul’s rapid growth over the past few decades. Sharing one of those apartment complexes with the rest of his family, Abdullah, with his wife and four children, live in very close proximity to grandparents, brothers, sisters, cousins, and etc. As one can imagine with such close quarters, sibling rivalry still rears its ugly head within their little community, but it does make holiday gatherings much more convenient. Last year for Kurban Bayramı, one of the two most important religious holidays on the Muslim calendar, commemorating Abraham’s willingness to sacrifice his son and God’s provision, Abdullah and his family shared the price of an ox, which the men slaughtered in the backyard and the women prepared and cooked in the matriarch’s kitchen. They shared the experience with their new American neighbor, who Abdullah has sort of taken under his wing, showing how this is a holiday about being with family, but also about giving to the poor. While he feels able to fulfill this religious duty, Abdullah is nevertheless feeling a crunch on his personal finances. With the always increasing cost of living, on top of the economic crisis, his business is not doing well. He confided to his American friend that he’s thought about selling the business and moving south—but this might just be a daydream. How could he uproot his children from their grandparents, aunts, uncles, school, and the only place any of them have ever known?

Though based on real life, the name and many details of this person’s life are fictitious.

*For more on Turkey’s rapidly changing demographics see Johns Hopkins University’s Turkey Analyst at http://www.silkroadstudies.org/new/inside/turkey/2009/091207B.html.

Benim Adım… (My Name Is…)

2010-05-31T00:54:00.000-07:00

Benim Adım… My Name Is…

For the past year we’ve been telling you about our life, but for the next couple months we want to bring you our observations of Turkey from a different perspective: from the lives of Turkish people. For the privacy of our friends and neighbors, we will not be using any real names. For a broader view for our readers we may even use some fictitious details, but we will try to stay true to the diverse reality of the people of Turkey. Though cultural differences can make us feel worlds apart from people in other countries, you may just find that you and we and our Turkish friends are not so different after all.

Evlenme (Marriage)

2010-05-24T00:28:00.000-07:00

Evlenme Marriage

Today we celebrate two years of being married! We have journeyed far, learned a lot, and have confidence that there is even more to look forward to together.

View our Anniversary Slide-show at biraz daha

Dolmabahçe Sarayı (Dolmabahçe Palace)

2010-05-17T00:23:00.000-07:00

Dolmabahçe Sarayı Dolmabahçe Palace

Our commute to school includes a ferry ride across the Bosporus from which we see see a beautiful European-style building resting on the edge of the water: Dolmabahçe Palace. Built in the 19th century by Sultan Abdülmecid I, Dolmabahçe Palace was home to several sultans and finally to the nation of Turkey’s founder, Mustafa Kemal Atatürk. Seeing tourists and school groups stream in and out over the last year, we eventually found time for a visit of our own.

In visiting Dolmabahçe Palace we discovered a network of 19th century palaces that encourage students to visit with an enticing 1 lira (about 66 cent) student fee. Most are moderate sized chalets built by the sultans during a period of world Westernization. In contrast to the traditional art and architecture found in Topkapı Palace, French designers were brought in to add European touches of gold gilding, crystal chandeliers, and floral ceiling art which would thrust the Turkish Ottoman Empire’s ruling class into the fashions of the time. They were built to impress, and there is no doubt that they accomplished this goal.

Now on our way to school we can not only see Dolmabahçe’s rich exterior, but also envision the beautiful paintings, massive chandeliers, ancient Chinese pottery, and the general grandeur fit for an Emperor.

Our view from the ferry.

Dünya (the World)

2010-05-10T00:16:00.000-07:00

Dünya the World

Some may assume that different counties and cultures may as well be worlds apart, and yet we are often surprised at how interconnected those worlds are. New technology makes this apparent with click-of-the-button communication, and yet the chain of influence has existed far longer than links on the internet. Whether Turkish influence across the globe dates back to the time of camels and caravans trekking along the Silk Road or comes from modern media, we can be thankful to the Turks that the Dutch are planting tulips, Seattleites are finding a nice compliment of yogurt for their granola, Australians are putting shish kebabs on their barbeques, fine ladies are receiving warmth from their angora wool sweaters, and romantic movie-goers are throwing around the idea of kismet. We ponder…

1. What bridges do we see bringing cultures together and how do we walk across those?

2. How can we appreciate and accept the influence of other cultures while maintaining our core identity?

3. What can we, as individuals, do to deflect the negative influences of our home culture on the world?

Ronald McDonald makes his appearance on Children’s Day.

Lale Zamanı (Tulip Time)

2010-05-03T05:55:00.000-07:00

Lale Zamanı Tulip Time

Legend has it that Carolus Clusius, the famed research biologist for the University of Leiden in the early 17th century was given a gift of bulbs from Oghier Ghislain de Busbecq, Ambassador of Ferdinand I to the Ottoman Empire. Enchanted by the colorful little blossoms that seemed to resemble Middle Eastern men’s turbans, the flower took on the name tülbend (meaning turban) eventually evolving into the English word we now use: tulip. From Clusius’ university campus in south Holland to the general Dutch populace, tulips became extraordinarily popular. For a time known as tulip mania a single tulip bulb could sell for a price exponentially greater than the average person’s annual income.

Though Holland remains the place renowned for its tulips, Turkey is the indigenous soil of these delicate flowers. Around the beginning of April colorful displays begin to bloom all over İstanbul ushering in the city’s annual tulip festival, lale zamanı. The best place to go during tulip time is Emirgan Parkı, a public park near the Bosporus in a northern district of İstanbul. Emirgan’s gardeners have prepared millions of tulips of all types of varieties arraigned in shapes and pictures that impress us every spring.

A few of the arrangements at Emirgan Parkı: a tulip, a rainbow, the evil eye.

Sources:
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Tulip
http://www.holland.nl/uk/holland/sights/tulips-history.html
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Tulip_mania

Hangisi daha güzel? (Which one is better?)

2010-04-26T23:18:00.000-07:00

Hangisi daha güzel? Which one is better?

Even in the few Turkish words that are becoming effortless our accents often betray us, leading to the inevitable question, “where are you from?” As simple as this question may seem, we are learning to be cautious with its answer. Sometimes saying we are American means stepping into a deluge of conspiracy theories and litany against our nation’s politics. On the other hand, many are warm and curious about our country.

Often a twin question to where are you from is posed: “hangisi daha güzel?” which one is better? 'Apples and oranges' we would say if we knew the Turkish equivalent. Really, it is like comparing a Reeses Peanut Butter Cup to a piece of baklava. They are both wonderful in their own way.

Turkey is a very new nation with a very long past, and we suspect its people hope to hear validation of their homeland. Naturally, Turks feel a sense of pride in their land and people. In reality, as outsiders, we can spot some of the idiosyncrasies that are hidden from those who have lived here long enough to see nothing as unusual. However, it isn’t our place to point out the speck in their eye. We are guests here, and more than that, we can honestly say that we love living in Turkey. We love our home country and even though we do miss Reeses Peanut Butter Cups, how could we not enjoy sinking our teeth into baklava?

Büyük Ada (The Big Island)

2010-04-19T05:50:00.000-07:00

Büyük Ada Big Island

A couple weeks ago the cluster of nine small islands off the coast of İstanbul, known as the Prince’s Islands, provided a brief escape for us after a taxing week of study. Even though tourist season is not yet in full swing, we found ourselves jostling for a seat on the packed, hour long ferry ride. The boat stops at Kınalı, Burgaz, and Heybeli islands before docking at the biggest island appropriately named Büyük Ada, the big island (although it’s circumference is probably only about 8 miles around).

After arriving we bypassed the long line of tourists waiting for horse carriage rides, finding a wide array of bicycle rental shops to choose from. We are not sure if it was our impressive Turkish or the lack of customers at one particular shop, but one vendor gave us an incredible deal: 2.50 Turkish Lira (roughly $1.70) per hour for each bicycle. It was not long before we were coasting around the island, rambling up hill to see the dilapidated, albeit ancient, St. George’s monastery, enjoying shady twisty pine trees and gorgeous views of the Marmara Sea. Except for one minor run-in Rebecca had with a trash can, all was smooth sailing.

During the Byzantine period the islands served as a place of banishment. Other than exiles, monks secluded themselves on the islands in quiet, worship. Today the islands are minimally inhabited, but provide an inexpensive, easy, and much needed day-trip for İstanbul residents like us.

People streaming onto the ferry.
Phillip cycling.

İlk Bahar (Spring)

2010-04-12T05:42:00.000-07:00

İlk Bahar Spring

Spring is in the air; a slight sea breeze funnels down the Bosporus, birds and bugs fly about, the plum trees have burst into full bloom. Turkish women are hard at work washing their carpets, hanging them like colorful tapestries off the balconies to dry. As in the fashion of spring cleaning we ask ourselves:

1. Keep: What aspects of Turkish life and culture do we want to further embrace?

2. Toss in the Trash: What negative attitudes about Turkey and its people must we discard?

3. Give Away: What perspectives have we gained from living here, and how can we offer those to others who wish to gain an understanding of Turkey?

Phillip has many opportunities to bring flowers home to Rebecca, as Gypsy flower stands return to the sidewalks with the warmer weather.

Öp (Kiss)

2010-04-05T02:06:00.000-07:00

Öp Kiss

Because our home culture is so deeply ingrained within us, adapting to a new culture is a very gradual process. One of the most pervasive aspects of Turkish culture we are still becoming comfortable with is the standard greeting: a kiss on each cheek. Most Americans will agree, in our home culture unless you are very close to someone, a sufficient salutation consists of an extension of the hand while standing at an acceptable distance away from the acquaintance or friend being greeted. Even this minimal contact can be somewhat unpleasant with the offer of a sweaty palm, but can you imagine coming face-to-face with a sweaty cheek?!

On top of kissing itself being uncomfortable, reading social protocol as to who is appropriate to greet in such a way can be tricky, particularly in such a diverse city as İstanbul. We’ve been around secular Turks who practice co-ed cheek-kissing with no qualms, but amongst conservative families we must be more cautious. If Phillip were to kiss a conservative man’s wife on the cheek in greeting, he would be in big trouble. Thus, we must acclimate both to the culture as a whole, as well as to each sub-culture.

As foreigner friends who have gone before us, we assume that eventually all this kissing will seem second-nature. It certainly denotes a sense of warmness and intimacy that the handshake fails to convey. Instead of feeling like you’ve just signed a business contract, meeting a Turkish person is a little more like receiving family into your home on Christmas Day.

One of Phillip’s friends going in for a kiss (on the cheek).

Stres Yapmayın (Don’t Stress)

2010-03-29T02:19:00.000-07:00

Stres Yapmayın Don’t Stress

The hinges on our toilet seat have rusted. A few stray cats are trying to make the balcony that houses our washing machine their new home. Despite seemingly earthquake-ready building codes a floor-to-ceiling crack on our bedroom wall makes us wonder. The metrobüs is always crowded, no matter what time of the day. Taxi drivers rail on us about American politics. We still don’t understand anything our landlord’s wife tries to say to us.

Before we came, we read the books and talked to the experts, but even with the best preparation, there is no way to avoid culture stress. You may be able to anticipate the major differences, but it’s hard to expect what little things will grate on you. A crack in the wall becomes an assault on our personal safety. A crowded bus intrudes on our hefty American space bubbles. A sweet, unassuming grandma offends our right to understand and be understood.

What our preparation has taught us is that we are normal. The trick is to not let these little “cracks” crack us. We live in a city with an ancient past and yet it owns all the modern conveniences. With the exception of a few taxi drivers, as Americans and English-speakers we are generally welcomed here. Furthermore, it would be naïve to think that every detail of our lives would be so much more perfect back home in America. In fact, if we were there it is certain we would be itching to be back here. Putting things into perspective, if being here means we have a little stress, it’s worth it.

Köşk (Summer Palace)

2010-03-15T05:00:00.000-07:00

Köşk Summer Palace

In Istanbul, a city which hosted nearly 500 years of Ottoman rulers known as Sultans, one does not have to go far to discover the traces of the once imperiously lavish Ottoman Empire. Many of the city’s parks and tea gardens have been developed on land that was once set aside as a place of retreat for the Sultans. Today the small yet richly decorated wooden pavilions (known as a köşk), marble fountains, extensive gardens, and inspiring landscapes that once provided a leisurely escape for rulers now offer the same to us.

The most famous köşk can naturally be found on the grounds of Topkapı Palace, but there are many scattered throughout the city. In fact, we know of at least two within walking distance from our apartment. One of these is in a park known as Küçük Çamlıca, or small pine hill. Taking advantage of a break in the weather, we took a walk up there this weekend. The best view—the Golden Horn to one side and the Prince’s Islands to the other—can be seen from a small platform off the side of the köşk. Our feet may have not traveled far to get there, but exploring these now rundown summer palaces gave our minds a chance to wander to a time when the Ottomans ruled, to a time that gives the Turkish nation its rich heritage of which we are learning every day.

Dinlendirmek (to allow Rest)

2010-03-08T21:16:00.000-08:00

Dinlendirmek to allow Rest

A few intense weeks of studying through most of February prepared us for taking the Graduate Records Examination (GRE), a requirement for the master’s level classes we are taking to become certified to teach English as a foreign language. With a sigh of relief, we’ve passed the test and now have placed ourselves back in the thick of language study. Yes, by this point we can “get around” in Turkish, but it is a long road to the ethereal city of Fluency.

Some days all this studying and bumbling over our words gets to us. The giant, looming question in the midst of it all is, “How do we keep sane?” So we ponder:

1. With seemingly never ending work to do to reach our goal, when is enough “enough”? When is it time to take a break?

2. How can we distinguish between taxing and relaxing activities? For example, when Rebecca watches the Thursday night t.v. series, Aşkı-Memnu, with our neighbors does that constitute work or play?

3. How can we keep in balance the discouraging perfectionist tendencies which keep us aware of how much we don’t know and a sense of contentment that reminds us to be happy with how much we have learned already?

Having a pleasant game of giant chess at Emirgan Park (last summer).

İnşallah (God willing)

2010-03-01T11:50:00.000-08:00

İnşallah God willing

Over the last year our Turkish friends have taught us a very significant word: İnşallah, “if God wills it.” Coming from Arabic, inşallah is often used by the religiously devout as a way of acknowledging that no one other than God can see the next step ahead. And yet, inşallah has even filtered down to the more secular Turks who will use it in the lighter sense of “hopefully.”

With two months of 2010 already gone, we look to the rest of the year as a blank slate before us—a blank slate that our minds are eagerly filling with plans and dreams. And yet this little word, so prolifically used in this country, serves as a constant reminder that, as James puts it, “you do not even know what will happen tomorrow. What is your life? You are a mist that appears for a little while and then vanishes. Instead you ought to say, ‘If it is the Lord’s will, we will live and do this or that.’”

With that said, this month we will study hard in the new level of language classes that start tomorrow, inşallah. This year we will complete TESL certification, inşallah. During the rest of our time here, as long as that may be, we will build deep friendships with our Turkish neighbors, inşallah. Meanwhile, we will continue to write about our lives and this fascinating culture which we find ourselves in, inşallah.

Spring is on it's way in İstanbul, İnşallah!

Hangi takımı tutuyorsunuz? (Which team do you support?)

2010-02-22T08:27:00.001-08:00

Hangi takımı tutuyorsunuz?
Which team do you support?

One of the most common questions, not to mention a great fall-back when conversation becomes sparse, that we (especially Phillip) hear is hangi takımı tutuyorsunuz? or “which team do you support?” Of course, this is referring to the only sport that really matters in Turkey – futbol. Though it hosts five total, three of İstanbul’s professional soccer teams are in constant contention with one another: the Beşiktaş Eagles, the Fenerbahçe Canaries, and the Galatasaray Lions. Besides being novices in the art of watching soccer, we are utterly torn as to which team we should support. Out of the top three, the biggest rivalry lies between Fenerbahçe and Galatasaray. Pro’s for Fener’: the stadium is on the Asian side of the city, not far from our house, which also means that most of our neighbors are Fenerbahçe fans. Pro’s for Galatasaray: their colors—red and yellow-- match Phillip’s team back home in the field of American football, the Kansas City Chiefs. We remain undecided.

Meanwhile, as the 2010 Winter Olympics take place, there is no doubt who we are rooting for in the larger world of sports—our home country of course. We’ve been able to watch clips of the Olympics via a somewhat stilted internet connection, enjoying skiing, curling, and figure skating, among other events. Along with our American athletes, there is one Turkish contestant, Tuğba Karademir, a figure skater (tugbakarademir.org), that we will be proud to cheer on. As the only Turkish Olympian this year, it is an easy choice to root for her.

Last year, us at the second coldest game in Kansas City Chief's History.

Sevgililer Günü (Valentine’s Day)

2010-02-15T07:28:00.001-08:00

Sevgililer Günü Valentine’s Day

Valentine’s Day, a special time to celebrate companionship and love, established by Pope Gelasius in 496 A.D., has caught the fancy of romantics as well as greeting card companies worldwide. And so, here we were in İstanbul, Turkey, celebrating our third Valentine ’s Day together. The holiday may not be native to this land, yet dove-eyed lovers have caught on to its charm, filling restaurants and candle-lit cafés on the evening of February 14th. Last year we braved the bustling street of İstiklal, umbrella’s colliding and shoes drenched by rain. To avoid the milieu this February, we planned an afternoon out followed by dinner and a movie inside our warm, dry home.

Though not necessarily romantic, we enjoyed spending time with each other wandering through remnants of history: the walls of Constantinople. Far into the European side of the city, in an area known as Topkapı, stand these formidable walls; a model of strategic military prowess and symbol of the undaunted power the Byzantine Empire held in Constantinople for over one thousand years. We went to a new museum which has been built next to the walls called Panorama 1453 which displays a stunning 360 degree mixed media art piece depicting the downfall of these walls by Ottoman Turks, lead by their fearless leader Sultan Mehmed II, the Conqueror, an accomplishment which reverberates proudly in the hearts of Turks to this day.

If you visit this museum, a series of panels with pictures and words describe what drove the Ottoman Turks to pursue what was thought to be impossible. In broad reality, there is a menagerie of emotions and beliefs that catalyze our actions, some noble and others ugly. While we may not be scaling walls, we hope love provides the motivation for us to pursue even that which is commonplace, both on February 14^th and throughout the rest of the year.

Happy Valentine’s Day.

The siege of Constantinople.

Yıldönümü (Anniversary)

2010-02-08T04:19:00.000-08:00

Yıldönümü Anniversary

January 21^st, 2010 marked our one year anniversary of living in Turkey. Having come back to America for Phillip’s sister’s wedding, we weren’t even in Turkey on our anniversary, although our homesickness for İstanbul made us realize how much of a home it has become. As we begin a new year of life in Turkey, we assess and ponder:

1. How far along have we come in learning the language? Can we carry a conversation about anything besides the weather?

2. Have we made a good effort to get to know Turkish people? What kind of a start have we made in knowing our neighbors?

3. What positive aspects of Turkish culture can we incorporate into our lives?

4. After being so warmly welcomed in 2009, what can we give back to our community this year?

Us back home in İstanbul.

Nikah (Wedding)

2010-01-11T11:17:00.000-08:00

Nikah Wedding

A few days ago our antsy legs walked off a plane onto the soil of Colorado as we took a deep, dry (thanks to the altitude) breath of home. We are back for a short time to witness the beautiful threshold ceremony that two days ago deemed Mark Whitehead and Phillip's sister, Ashley, a married couple.

Turkish culture, like our own, hosts such ceremonies to commemorate the significant events in our lives. While modern Turks enjoy the white princess dress, they have not forgotten the complex string of traditions that comprise a wedding—an engagement ceremony for the whole family to enjoy, a bridal party during which the bride and her friends press reddish-brown henna into their palms, a brief civil ceremony known as a nikah, and finally a big party called a düğün.

A few months ago we attended our first düğün, an evening that dances by to the sound of a traditional pipe and drum. Guests hold pinkies and tap their feet in unison, circling around the room in folk dance. A break in the music gave everyone a chance to file by the happy couple and pin monetary gifts to stoles around their necks, or gold bracelets on the bride’s arm. And of course there was cake, but in military fashion it was cut with a sword rather than a sissy kitchen knife.

We should have suggested the sword idea to Mark and Ashley for a more masculine touch to the wedding. But then again, whether it’s a sword or a kitchen knife, gift bags or gold bracelets, the heart of a wedding, whether it is in Colorado Springs or İstanbul, remains the same. Weddings are an opportunity for families and communities to gather together and bless two people who have stepped (or danced) through the doors of matrimony.

Mark and Ashley Whitehead

Kaç Zaman (How Long)

2010-01-04T08:40:00.000-08:00

Türkiye’de kaç zaman kalmak istiyorsunuz?
How long do you want to stay in Turkey?

“Leyleği havada gördü,” one of our neighbors said of us with a smile on her face. This colloquialism conveys the meaning that, like a majestic stork in migration, we are constantly on the move. Whether that means from one city to the next or merely from our apartment to our neighbor’s home, our comings and goings within Turkey have been flavored by the black tea simply known as çay.

Turkish tea, primarily grown in the moist Black Sea region, is universally drunk throughout the country at any and every time of the day, offered in small tulip shaped glasses with one or two cubes of sugar on the side. (Phillip takes one and half cubes of sugar, but Rebecca has worked her way to sugarless tea).

Like kahve, sharing a pot of çay is an act of friendship. When a host offers some it usually means they hope you will stay and visit for awhile. While acquiring our tastes to Turkey over the course of 2009 we have had the pleasure of taking up this offer many times in the homes of neighbors and friends. We are often asked how long we plan on staying in Turkey. Our answer: bring out the çay; we hope to stay for a long time.

We enjoyed the lush beauty of the Black Sea region, the perfect place for growing tea.

Yılbaşı (New Year’s)

2009-12-28T06:21:00.000-08:00

Yılbaşı New Year’s

Exchanging stories with other “foreigners” like us, our friend shared one of his faux pas when he first came to Turkey 19 years ago: excited about his newly acquired skill of making Turkish coffee, he took the first opportunity he could to impress his Turkish neighbors. Once one neighbor settled onto the couch after preliminary kisses on the cheek and talk about the weather, he gladly presented the small, steaming demitasse to which confusion was the main response. The neighbor had come, intending a nice long visit…why was this foreigner serving coffee? Did he not want visitors? Had he already made plans?

Thus we are introduced to a slight cultural nuance about visiting and coffee. The coffee most often comes at the end of the visit. Perhaps if you are meeting outside the home coffee means “let’s sit and chat,” but inside the home, when the host is preparing a hot drink for his guest, there is logic to the timeliness of coffee. You see, brewing Turkish tea in its tiered pots can take quite awhile, while making coffee is a shorter process. Considering this, it makes sense why an offer of tea means “stay for awhile” but coffee denotes “let’s not keep this long.” Coffee may even come after a long evening as a hint for guests to leave.

This year of discussing our experiences, discoveries, and questions with you began “with us in a café, chatting about life over petite cups of silky grounds” (to quote our first entry), but now we offer a final cup of kahve as we close 2009. Please visit again in 2010…we’ll have a pot of tea waiting.