Phillip and Rebecca Mefford

Hangisi daha güzel? Which one is better? Even in the few Turkish words that are becoming effortless our accents often betray us, leading to the inevitable question, “where are you from?” As simple as this question may seem, we are learning to be cautious with its answer. Sometimes saying we are American means stepping into a deluge of conspiracy theories and litany against our nation’s politics. On the other hand, many are warm and curious about our country. Often a twin question to where are you from is posed: “hangisi daha güzel?” which one is better? 'Apples and oranges' we would say if we knew the Turkish equivalent. Really, it is like comparing a Reeses Peanut Butter Cup to a piece of baklava. They are both wonderful in their own way. Turkey is a very new nation with a very long past, and we suspect its people hope to hear validation of their homeland. Naturally, Turks feel a sense of pride in their land and people. In reality, as outsiders, we can spot some of the idio

Büyük Ada Big Island A couple weeks ago the cluster of nine small islands off the coast of İstanbul, known as the Prince’s Islands, provided a brief escape for us after a taxing week of study. Even though tourist season is not yet in full swing, we found ourselves jostling for a seat on the packed, hour long ferry ride. The boat stops at Kınalı, Burgaz, and Heybeli islands before docking at the biggest island appropriately named Büyük Ada, the big island (although it’s circumference is probably only about 8 miles around). After arriving we bypassed the long line of tourists waiting for horse carriage rides, finding a wide array of bicycle rental shops to choose from. We are not sure if it was our impressive Turkish or the lack of customers at one particular shop, but one vendor gave us an incredible deal: 2.50 Turkish Lira (roughly $1.70) per hour for each bicycle. It was not long before we were coasting around the island, rambling up hill to see the dilapidated, albeit ancient, St.

İlk Bahar Spring Spring is in the air; a slight sea breeze funnels down the Bosporus, birds and bugs fly about, the plum trees have burst into full bloom. Turkish women are hard at work washing their carpets, hanging them like colorful tapestries off the balconies to dry. As in the fashion of spring cleaning we ask ourselves: 1. Keep: What aspects of Turkish life and culture do we want to further embrace? 2. Toss in the Trash: What negative attitudes about Turkey and its people must we discard? 3. Give Away: What perspectives have we gained from living here, and how can we offer those to others who wish to gain an understanding of Turkey? Phillip has many opportunities to bring flowers home to Rebecca, as Gypsy flower stands return to the sidewalks with the warmer weather.

Öp Kiss Because our home culture is so deeply ingrained within us, adapting to a new culture is a very gradual process. One of the most pervasive aspects of Turkish culture we are still becoming comfortable with is the standard greeting: a kiss on each cheek. Most Americans will agree, in our home culture unless you are very close to someone, a sufficient salutation consists of an extension of the hand while standing at an acceptable distance away from the acquaintance or friend being greeted. Even this minimal contact can be somewhat unpleasant with the offer of a sweaty palm, but can you imagine coming face-to-face with a sweaty cheek?! On top of kissing itself being uncomfortable, reading social protocol as to who is appropriate to greet in such a way can be tricky, particularly in such a diverse city as İstanbul. We’ve been around secular Turks who practice co-ed cheek-kissing with no qualms, but amongst conservative families we must be more cautious. If Phillip were to kiss a co